Saturday, 17 September 2016

New York Fashion Week - S/S 17 - Top 10

It is that time of year again...Fashion Month! As I do each season, I will be reviewing my top 10 collections from each city. First up is New York...
"Joyous, Flirty and Fun" is how Joseph Altuzarra described his SS17 collection backstage. His starting point was the film 'Wild at Heart' by David Lynch, direct references of which included the python print and the chosen colour palette. Cute cherry and lemon prints adorned daywear and embroidered evening dresses. Altuzarra's signature ruffles were back once again on dresses, skirt hems and bralettes. My favourite piece in the collection? The bold floral printed dress. Beautiful!
Jason Wu
The starting point for this collection was the artist Ugo Rondinone, you will have probably seen his 'Seven Magic Mountains' installation across social media. Neon pops of colour were used as trims on dresses and coats, whilst fluorescent florals were embroidered onto feminine lace and tulle dresses. Sporty off-the shoulder dresses added a slight edge to the collection and made a contrast against the more soft, feminine pieces.
Prabal Gurung
For SS17, Gurung injected a nod to politics into his collection with famous speeches by notable women printed onto bias-cut dresses - very apt given the current presidential race for The White House in the USA. Slashed dresses featured heavily, as did over-sized sleeves and printed fur. I adored the rich colours and floral jacquard dress.
Tory Burch
One of the queens of NYFW presented a rich and vibrant collection full of bold prints. Bursts of orange and blue created a superb ground for folkloric, floral and nautical patterns. The wonderful collection of eclectic prints were inspired by 'classic America' with free-spirited West Coast vibes. Sure to be some of the most coveted pieces of the season, each look was both wearable and perfect for summer. Street style and instagram worthy.
Proenza Schouler
Primary colours and cut-outs were the order of the day at the Proenza show. The artisan here was exceptional - intarsia fur, woven leather dresses and ostrich feather checked tops. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez also played with volume. Architectural skirts were made from plisse and had asymmetric hems. The knotted dresses were a key look, as were the earrings.
As one of the fastest rising brands in fashion, Monse has become known for it's shirting. I loved that this season the design duo behind the helm of the brand (and also the newly appointed creative directors at Oscar de la Renta) Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim, experimented sequins and shape. Cargo pants were unexpected as evening wear but worked exceptionally well. The red, white and blue colour combination was another nod to the impending US election.
The key theme here was Bees...yes really. Honeycomb layering and an abundance of tulle added a dramatic element to the Mulleavy sisters SS17 offering. Metallic's ran through the collection in the form of both fabrication and embellishment. Floral prints, with a 70's feel, were presented on lightweight fabrics and were amongst my favourite looks in the collection.
This season Michelle Smith was focusing on pure fabrics and sensuality. There was as much focus on the back of the garments as there was on the front. Bows, straps and cut-outs made for a beautifully feminine collection. Lavender Blue and soft greens were the key colours used throughout and the use of shirting was also prominent. Loose geometrics and soft monochrome palms were sparsely injected into the collection. One of the most perfect summer collections seen at NYFW this season. Love!
Victoria Beckham
Velvet for Spring? Yes, that was the fabric of choice at Victoria Beckham this season. The stunning crushed velvet came in an incredible array of colours including lavender and turquoise. Many of the pieces in this collection had a slouchy and relaxed feel to them - a million miles away from the structured dresses we used to see when VB started her fashion brand. There was also an emphasis on bra's - seen partially worn under dresses and as stand alone bralette's. The soft floral prints were also beautifully executed and are sure to be popular.
Marc Jacobs
Most likely to be a love or hate collection, there is no denying the impact of the Marc Jacobs show. A riot of colour, texture, layering and volume - Marc Jacobs closed NYFW in spectacular fashion. Aside from the multi-coloured dreadlocks and sky high platforms, the clothes were constructed from metallic fabrics, high shine satin, suede and a splash of fur. The prints were in fact illustrations by the artist Julie Verhoeven.

For a more extensive look at all the NYFW collections, head over to my Pinterest page (details below). I'm posting daily, all the latest runway looks.

Stay tuned to my blog for my review on London Fashion Week, coming next Saturday.

Phillippa x

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