Monday, 26 September 2016

Milan Fashion Week - S/S 17 - Top 10

No sooner has Milan Fashion Week drawn to a close and my review is already here! Milan has been my favourite city so far and selecting my top 10 collections proved tricky, but after consideration here are my top choices...
This was the most stripped back Prada show we have seen in a few seasons. Miuccia's continued love of art-deco graphic prints was once again clear to see and this season came in block primary colours. High waisted shorts teamed with midriff baring crop tops and pull over knitted vests were a strong look, along with bold checked prints. The main key feature from the collection however has to be the use of ostrich feathers - seen on skirts shoes, dresses and trouser hems.
Alessandro Michele never ceases to amaze with his showstopping runway collections and for SS17 it was the 70's/80's meets the Renaissance. Sky-high platform heels in velvet were teamed with signature embroidered dresses made from delicate chiffon. Metallics were used to add a glam rock vibe to the collection, whilst layers of tulle and ruffles exaggerated shoulders. Prints were largely floral, what we have come to expect from Gucci as of late, and they had a vintage/antique feel to them. Once again this was an eclectic show which will no doubt have a-listers and fashion lovers alike scrambling to get their hands on.
Roberto Cavalli
There's no denying that Peter Dundas know's how to channel the spirit of the 70's, and this season was no different. Floor sweeping tiered gowns, off-the-shoulder ruffles, suede fringing and spaghetti strap dresses  - all made from beautiful silks, luxurious velvet, lace and vintage inspired denim. Patchwork prints were inspired by Najavo textiles and had metallic threads running through them. Flared trousers elongated the legs, especially when in striped fabric. Also worth noting are the embroidered skinny scarves - one trend that shows no sign of slowing down anytime soon.
With a distinct athletic feel to the collection, models strode down the runway in an array of everyday sportwear meets daywear pieces - led by Edie Campbell who opened the show in a skintight bodysuit. Tech fabrics were key to the collection adding to the overall sporty vibe. Nylon trackpants with drawstring waists and zipper details were a constant throughout. Graphic checkerboard scarf prints made a bold statement against the largely purple, green and ink blue colour palette. Signature slit detailing was present as was the use of colour blocked leather. Short embellished chainmail dresses closed the show. Sky high heels were mixed with Teva flatform sandals adding a more practical element to the collection.
Ultra feminine nude coloured dresses with cut-outs were offset against bold stripes, but somehow it worked. A thoroughly modern collection which mixed traditional baroque brocade fabrics with super short dresses and sporty heels. Sheer blouses came with exquisite scalloped hems and pleat detailing. There was also a hint of the pajama trend which we have already seen this season, with silk striped shirt dresses that had exaggerated sleeves. An array of gilded gowns and coats closed the show, adding to the overall high fashion finish.
Etro is not a trend driven brand, they stick to their heritage and know exactly what their consumer wants. For SS17 there was a distinct nod to travel, with tapestry inspired prints that looked like they had been taken from antique rugs you would find at a street market in India. Another travel inspired print was a collage of images taken from 1920's expedition books. The juxtaposition between geometric shapes and the traditional patterns created a great balance between the contemporary and the old. Leather sandals and statement gold necklaces completed the look.
Marco de Vincenzo
Catching my eye as one of the most exciting fashion brands of the past few seasons, I always look forward to the Marco de Vincenzo show - I mean who can resist a lurex fringe? With an exceptional eye for pairing colours together and the use of metallics, this season de Vincenzo also played with texture. Ruffled lace sleeves, oversized fringed knitwear, velvet embroidery and string details all helped to create one of the most exciting collections from Milan. A vintage postcard depicting the Riviera became the main print in the show and was seen on coats and blouses, whilst a small scale daisy print was layered over stripes. Also worth noting are the shoes - for which de Vincenzo is fast becoming very well know for.
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
The film The Blue Lagoon was the initial inspiration behind the collection. Dreamy floor sweeping gowns with ruffled hems answered all your summertime sartorial prayers. These came in the most beautiful floral printed fabrics, whilst some were more classic in white and soft pastel lilac. The prints in question were some of the best tropicals we have seen all season and the blue/yellow/blush colour combo was perfect.  Emphasis on the waist was also a key feature, with oversized leather belts and corsets - set to be a huge trend for SS17. Very notable also was the use of denim, cut with frayed edges to give a youthful feel to the pieces. Modern and romantic.
Dolce and Gabbana
It wouldn't be a Dolce and Gabbana collection without a serious nod to Italian culture. This season, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, created an array of uber fun prints: cocktail glasses, pasta, pizza, ice-cream cones and fish to name but a few. The matador style jackets with military detailing, in green and yellow, which opened the show were amongst my favourite pieces in the collection and created feelings of stylish power dressing. Everyday wardrobe staples such as jeans were given a serious high fashion finish, embellished to the nines with embroidered patches and gold hardware. Oh and you couldn't have a Dolce collection without some serious floral blooms.
There is always something so serene about a Marni collection, a fine art that Consuelo Castiglioni has mastered since founding the brand in 1994. Dresses with billowing sleeves came in the most beautiful subdued colours, whilst some were printed with micro florals and subtle textures. Plisse was integral to the collection, creating stunning silhouettes in the way in which it was draped. Drawstrings were used to create ruching effects on waists and cuffs. Overall an exceptional collection shunning trends in favour of something more timeless and classic.

For a more extensive look at all the SS17 collections, head over to my Pinterest page and take a look at my 'Runway Favourites' board (details below). I will also be posting my Paris Fashion Week review once all the shows have taken place.

Phillippa x

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