Wednesday, 21 September 2016

London Fashion Week - S/S 17 - Top 10

Continuing my review of the SS17 collections, here is my look at LFW...
Mary Katrantzou
This season Mary took inspiration from her Greek heritage to create a collection full of showstopping prints. Having shied away from bold prints the past few seasons, putting a greater emphasis on embellishment, for SS17 the designer when back to her routes and incorporated classical Greek art into her collection. Combining these with trippy psychedelic 60's graphics led to a display of some real 'wow' prints. Throw in a dash of metallic, micro pleats and some perspex trims and you got a pretty perfect collection!
Peter Pilotto
Easy breezy billowing silhouettes flounced down the runway at the Peter Pilotto show. Voluminous dresses added drama to the collection and came in cool yellow and sky blue. Floral prints were loosely drawn and marked a change in style from the usual tightly constructed prints were are used to seeing from the design duo. Denim with embroidered patches teamed with gingham were polular looks. There was also an emphasis on decolletage.
Ok, so strictly speaking this is the brand's A/W collection but given that Burberry have adopted the 'See-Now, Buy-Now' retail model (meaning that you can shop this entire collection now online and in-store) it was shown in and amongst the S/S17 shows. Virginia Woolf's novel Orlando was the inspiration behind this seasons offering, all the guests also received a copy. The Elizabethan era was referenced heavily, with ruffled collars and rich tapestry dresses. Another key trend to emerge from this collection, and one which will no doubt be widely copied on the highstreet, was the nonchalant pajama style shirts and trousers. The collection was rich in historical references and fabrics included: jacquard, velvet, silk, shearling and lace. 
House of Holland
This season marks Henry Hollands 10th year at the helm of his eponymous brand. There is always a playful element to a House of Holland collection, not taking itself too seriously whilst still remaining commercial. Gingham was a big theme, and teamed with awesome neckties had a cowgirl-esque vibe. There were nods to the macro trend 'athleisure' in the form of trackpants and hoodies. What I loved the most was the Oriental style floral print, which was somewhat unexpected and sophisticated. Back also were the now iconic slogan tee's.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
More trippy vibes at the Preen show, with metallic fabrics and candy coloured ruffles. Inspiration was found in witchcraft...yes really! Pentagram motifs adorned many of the pieces in the collection adding a magical feel to it. Oversized plaid dresses, astrology motifs and a hint of punk spirit made for one of the best shows we saw in London.
Christopher Kane
'Make Do and Mend' was the title of Kane's SS17 collection. So how did this translate to the runway? Well, Kane looked back on his past collections for inspiration as well as reflecting on his childhood for points of reference. As always with Kane you get lots of interesting fabrics and textures: metallic lame, lace, net, fur, embroidery, applique and eyelets - all present and making a statement. Leopard prints added an edge to the collection, whilst a collage print made of old Polaroids was particularly cool. As this was the designers 10th year showing at LFW, he created a new copper lace mini dress inspired by his triumphant 2006 collection.
As one of the key players at LFW the past few seasons, Jonathan Anderson once again claimed his stake on the British fashion scene. Quilting and pleating were two key features, as was loose tie-dye. Oversized knitwear with exaggerated rolled sleeves also made a big impact. The newly appointed creative director at Loewe is fast becoming one of the most influential designers in the world of fashion. The accessories are also worth noting as well.
Temperley London
When your parents own the legendary 'Cider Bus' at Glastonbury festival, its impossible not to be inspired by the draw of a summer festival. For SS17, Alice Temperley's collection imbued the spirit of carefree summer days. Dreamy sunset colours and hippie maxi dresses were both feminine and fun, whilst ombre silk dresses would make the perfect addition to your dream holiday wardrobe. The formula was nothing new, but it worked to perfection!
There is always a poetic narrative to an Erdem show and this season was no different. This time around, Erdem Moralioglu referenced the discovery of a ship wreck with contents belonging to Jean Kerr, Countess of Roxburghe. Not many designers could turn such a poignant story into a 39-strong look collection - but that is exactly what Erdem did. 17th century floral prints, traditional woven silks and broderie anglaise ran through the collection. Signature grosgrain ribbon fastenings featured on many of the looks. A beautifully dramatic collection for Spring.
Colour-blocking at Roksanda is a given, but this season the designer also played with loosely drawn whimsical florals. Modern silhouettes and billowing silk dresses were sophisticated and sensual. Copper and bronze liquid silks flowed beautifully, whilst ostrich feathers added texture.

Stay tuned to my blog for my review of Milan Fashion Week, which I will be posting next Saturday. In the meantime, be sure to follow my Pinterest page for pictures of all the best and latest runway looks. (details below)

Phillippa x

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