Saturday 30 September 2017

London Fashion Week SS18 - Top 5

Living in London, and working in fashion, there is always something exciting about the prospect of LFW. This season Emporio Armani and the powerhouse that is TommyXGigi were added to the schedule. Brit designers are known for their experimental approach to design, not afraid to take risks and play with colour and silhouette. Here are my top 5 from LFW SS18...
J.W.Anderson
Jonathan Anderson referenced the 'need for sanctuary' in his show notes, with a feeling of serenity washing over the collection. You may remember that Anderson recently curated his first exhibition at the Hepworth gallery in Yorkshire, and perhaps as a nod to this Anderson used many natural fiber's this season: linen, cotton and nappa leather. Previous collections have consisted of architectural silhouettes, and whilst Anderson's love of art was still present this season the collection on a whole looked more composed. Stripes and cross tied detailing were key features.
Christopher Kane
At a glance you wouldn't be able to second guess that Kane's latest collection was inspired by an infamous 1980's South London brothel...but take a closer look and the references were all there. The tailored pieces, which opened the show, were a nod to the well-to-do gentlemen who may visit such an establishment. However take a closer look and the models were wearing chokers. Elsewhere, patent leather was a nod to a powerful dominatrix. As the phrase goes 'no one knows what happens behind closed doors' and Kane toyed with this unassuming nature of his muse by creating trims from household cleaning material such as mops and cleaning cloths.
Mary Katrantzou
I have been a fan of Mary Katrantzou from day one. I fondly remember her joyful printed collections of seasons past, and for me this SS18 collection harks back to those early days. This is the Katrantzou that I love - colour, print and volume. Billowing silhouettes opened the show in high-shine fabrics and glorious OOT prints. The collection was inspired by the designer's childhood, more specifically the toys she used to play with. Most notably in this collection was the use of Hama beads - which were used as embellishments on dresses. There was also a hint of sportswear in the collection, with the addition of parker jackets with elasticated cord pulls.
Peter Pilotto
It wouldn't be a Peter Pilotto collection without a splash of colour or an eye catching print - this season was no different. However, for SS18 the colours were less vibrant and instead in a beautiful array of pastels. The two key prints were stripes and stylised florals -  the later of which was inspired by a trip the design duo took to the island of Okinawa, Japan. Whilst I felt at times the large scale florals looked a tad dated, or vintage, I felt they worked well when patched together on a slightly smaller scale. I also loved the ultra feminine use of tailoring: ruched panels, knot details, off-the-shoulder tops and flowing asymmetric hems. The Japanese influence was also present on some of the Kimono-style dresses. Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos also added athleisure looks into the collection, with silk tracksuits. 
Erdem
Erdem Moralioglu's latest offering was inspired by Queen Elizabeth. It was on a research trip to Windsor Castle that Erdem found his starting point for SS18. Suitably royal fabrics including brocades were used multiple times in the collection - all in rich colours. Many of the pieces were conservative in their cut, with high necklines and below the knee hems, however as the collection progressed, bustier dresses and floor length revealing lace gowns made an appearance. The emerging trend for balloon-skirted gowns was also seen here on the runway. The prints were beautifully hand painted florals, with exquisite elements of embellishment.

Be sure to follow my blog so you don't miss my Milan and Paris fashion week reviews...

Phillippa x

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Monday 25 September 2017

New York Fashion Week SS18 - Top 5

As I do each season, I am once again reviewing my top picks from the new season collections. First up is New York. Two of my favourite designers, Rodarte and Proenza Schouler, have recently departed NYFW instead opting to join the couture schedule in Paris...hence why they are missing from this review. And whilst I did miss their presence on the schedule this season, there were many other designers whose collections caught my eye...here are my top 5 from NYFW...
Marc Jacobs
Certainly not a collection for a shrinking violet...but when does Marc Jacobs ever do anything by halves? For me this was undoubtedly the standout show from NYFW this season - The colour, print, embellishment, glamour, excess - it was all there loud and proud. OK...so where to start! Firstly we have to discuss the prints - both oversized and psychedelic. The trippy patterns were real showstoppers and came on floor sweeping dresses, which had a retro feel to them, and also on sporty outerwear for a more modern look. There was also a naivety in the way in which they had been drawn. Then there were the turbans, as seen on most of the models. Tapping into the current sports culture in fashion, the collection included: silk trackpants, sliders and cross body bags. Throw in a tonne of sequins and embellishment into the mix and you've got yourself a pretty MAJOR SS18 collection.
Calvin Klein
The American artist Sterling Ruby, provided a key source of inspiration for Raf Simons latest offering for Calvin Klein. If you are familiar with the artists work, then you will recognise his spray paint style artwork adorning rubber macs and skirts. Simons explained his obsession with film and tv also played a part in his collection, hence the somewhat sinister feel to the aforementioned garments - 'American horror, American dreams' Simons explained. In a further nod to Hollywood, Andy Warhol prints of the actor Dennis Hopper were printed on dresses. Ladylike 1950's silhouettes were modernised by the use of waterproof nylon. Above all else, what I liked the most here was the use of colour-blocking. Striking colour combinations of orange/black and yellow/pink will no doubt be influencing my Spring 18 wardrobe.
Prabal Gurung
Prabal does proportion exceptionally well, and this season was no different. Beautifully feminine silhouettes, with slashed details and delicate rouleau buttons were key features. The colour palette was simply music to my ears, with fuschia and neon pink being constant throughout the collection. I loved the injection of an edgy asymmetric plaid, along with the most wonderful floral print. Leather and corset waists toughened up the collection and offered something a little more dramatic to the collection... perhaps for a consumer who wishes to take a few more sartorial risks with their look.
Monse
Distinct references to college and sportswear were made during the latest Monse runway presentation. Baseball-style shirts, complete with slogans, and stitched detailing were present throughout. Signature stripes worked perfectly with the theme of the show, and complemented the star prints perfectly. Of course with the theme being what it was, a colour palette or red, white and blue worked harmoniously with the collection. Track pants and bomber jackets were elevated with the use of off-the-shoulder tailoring. Monse is still proving to be one of the must-have new brands on the fashion scene!
Jason Wu
Wu explained prior to his show that this season his collection would offer something more casual than in previous seasons. Loosely draped silhouettes, in ultra-soft colours, were the order of the day. The introduction of jersey, as a material of choice, further ensured the relaxed feel to the collection. Despite the cutout details and sheer panels, there was a rather effortless feel to the collection. A tropical floral print, in acid brights, injected personality into the collection. 

For a more extensive look at all the collections from NYFW, be sure to follow my 'Runway Favourites' board over on my Pinterest (details below).

Stay tuned to my blog, as my London Fashion Week review is coming on Saturday...

Phillippa x

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Monday 18 September 2017

Colourboard - Orange/Cobalt/Black

This fiery colour combo was just seen on the Calvin Klein SS18 runway during NYFW...and boy did it make an impact! A deep shade of blood orange packs a major punch when sitting alongside cobalt blue and black. Whilst this colour palette was seen for Spring/Summer and Resort 18 (Valentino) it is also a great transitional colour scheme to work into your wardrobe for Fall. This palette projects strength and power, and for me fashion is all about making you feel confident hence why I am loving this colour combination. You can opt for block coloured separates or go for garments which incorporate all three colours in one, as seen at Versace.
Phillippa x

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Saturday 16 September 2017

September Playlist

I don't know about you, but when i'm procrastinating writing blog posts and struggling to find the motivation to write that first paragraph, I turn to music. I write my best posts when i've got my headphones tuned into my laptop and the music is playing loudly. It's almost like I challenge myself to see how much work I can get done by the time a playlist has finished and right now these are my current go-to tunes...
Friends by Francis and the Lights ft Bon Iver
Morals by Batts
Surround Me by LEON
Song For Zula by Phosphorescent
Smoke by Mosa Wild
Lovers by Anna Of The North
Hypnotic by Zella Day
Time Lapse by Soul to Speak
Open Your Eyes by School Of Seven Bells
Music Is The Answer by Joe Goddard / SLO
Higher Love by James Vincent McMorrow
About Today by The National
Let You Go by London Topaz / JANEVA
The Breach by Dustin Tebbutt
Lights Out, Words Gone by Bombay Bicycle Club
White Noise by Ella Vos (R3hab remix)
Dangerous Days by Zola Jesus
A Moment's Grace by Boy & Bear
Cold by Mating Ritual ft Lizzy Land
Complete by Danglo ft Ivan Franco
Silence for You by Mononoke
Classic by The Knocks ft POWERS
Lion by Kacy Hill
Motionless by Alpines
Warm Blood by Flor
Deadwater by Wet
Say It too by Mark Harding
Undertow by Panama
Always There When I Need You by Salt Cathedral
I Don't Think So by Ben Phipps
Dear, Home by EXES


Phillippa x

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Wednesday 13 September 2017

Resort 18 Colourboard - Soft Salmon

For Resort 18, we saw beautiful soft salmon emerging from the collections. Gentle shades of salmon, with both coral and pink undertones, were present. These feminine colours were juxtaposed on oversized masculine silhouettes - 2-piece suits being a key look. The key to nailing this trend is to embrace the colour palette throughout your full outfit. This colour trend also follows on nicely from the 'Twee Florals' print trend which we have also seen emerging this season. Designers: Roksanda, Ports, Narcisco Rodriguez
Phillippa x

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Saturday 9 September 2017

Outfit of The Month - September

It's finally Autumn! I LOVE the Fall, time to get the knitwear out of the wardrobe and layer up. I adore olive green shades, so this oversized knit from Chloe is perfect for the season and will transition well into the winter.  For me, a leather skirt is always a winner, and this one from Etoile Isabel Marant really caught my eye thanks to its asymmetric hem and wrap detailing. You may know by now that ankle boots are definitely my vice when it comes to fashion, I just love them. This killer pair from Toga Pulla are an absolute dream and come in a beautiful teal suede with cowboy-inspired buckles. Furla is an accessories brand which I have really been loving recently, after attending one of their press events in London. This cute satchel with playful print is the perfect bag to liven up this outfit. Completing the look is a statement star necklace and plaid coat. All pieces are available to shop now.
Phillippa x 

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Monday 4 September 2017

Resort 18 Moodboard - Twee Florals

It wouldn't be Spring without a floral print, and for Resort 18 designers honed in on pretty florals and scaled them down to a micro proportions. Rosie Assoulin took inspiration from bouquet wrapping paper. The result was a  somewhat graphic print which also included the slogan 'say it with flowers' and yet the overall look was elegant once printed on a fem bustier dress. Brock Collection and Jill Stuart opted for twee florals with an overall vintage feel to them. Collections remained contemporary thanks to injections of soft lilac and olive green.
Phillippa x

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