Saturday, 19 September 2015

New York Fashion Week SS16 - Top 10

As I have done the past couple of seasons, I will be posting a 'Top 10' for each SS16 fashion week city starting today with New York.
Victoria Beckham
I adored the fluidity of this collection, the beautiful draped soft tailoring and mid length skirts. The crisp white and black pieces had injections of orange, blue and yellow which added a contemporary twist. The traditional screen-print style surfer motifs were unexpected, as were the hibiscus flowers offset against a backdrop of gingham and windowpane checks. All of the above meant that this collection became one of my standout favourites from New York.
Tommy Hilfiger
It was Island vibes over at Tommy Hilfiger. An abundance of red, blue and yellow, crochet, billowing chiffon dresses, patchworks and swimwear...this collection took you straight to the Caribbean. The bold floral prints were exceptionally eye-catching creating an overall collection which can only best be described as very 'cool'.
Michelle Smith said she wanted to capture the feeling of a 'summer romance', and she did just that in perfect proportions. Flattering cuts and sophisticated summer colours marked a change in direction from the previously seen sporty collections from Smith. The off-the shoulder pieces were super feminine and the textured hems added a relaxed feeling to the minimalistic garments. My favourite piece in the collection was a great striped knitwear dress...straight on my wardrobe wishlist.
Proenza Schouler
Hints of Spanish influences came in the form of the red, white and black colour palette and flamenco-esque ruffles. Velvet ribbons, fil coupe, feathers, mesh and cut-outs, executed to the highest standard. This collection had all the elements to make it one of the best we saw in New York.
Oscar de la Renta
For SS16 Peter Copping took inspiration from Spain. The carnation print was inspired by the flower of choice that Oscar de la Renta would wear in his buttonhole when he was living in Madrid. The same flower was also thrown into a bullring at the end of the fight. Each look which came down the runway was as beautiful as the next and Copping's exceptional eye for colour shone through in this collection.
Marking the 75th anniversary of Coach, Stuart Vevers took his runway show to the High Line in Manhattan. Having lived in New York myself, the High Line was one of my favourite places to spend a laidback weekend, so I can imagine how great this location would be for a runway show. Hand painted micro-florals featured heavily, as did bright colours. It was all about comfortable, easy to wear everyday pieces and the shoes had my name written all over them.
Mara Hoffman
It was a print party at Mara Hoffman. Not afraid to shy away from print and colour, this season was no different. The starting point for the collection was the Willie Nelson song 'Blue Skies', hence the large scale cloud print and braided hair. Oversized floral prints packed a punch, whilst the maize print added softness.
As each season goes by I find myself getting more excited to see what Josep Font will serve up next. This collection was a dream like fairy-tale of oversized silhouettes, icy colours, exquisite fabrics, texture and detailing. It was beautifully romantic.
 Monique Lhuillier
Known for her use of colour, this season colours were electric. Primarly a go-to brand for red carpet attire, this collection will make for some seriously gorgeous evening looks. There was a rather artsy element in the collection in the form of soft watercolour floral/paint splatter prints.
For SS16, Ricardo Tisci showcased the brands collection in New York instead of Paris. Pieces resembling lingerie were paired with tuxedo separates. Sensual cuts were a sartorial dream as were the shoes. As always with Givenchy, the fabric and attention to detail was exquisite.

I will posting a London Top 10 next week, but if you can't wait until then be sure to follow my 'Runway Favourites' board on Pinterest.

Phillippa x

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