Wednesday, 30 September 2015

Milan Fashion Week - Top 10

The 'Carte de Tendre' was the starting point for what was one of the most magnificent shows we saw in Milan. Whilst the theme was consistent throughout, each look was different from the next. The prints were inquisitive, some traditional and some off-beat, and came in an abundance of colours. The trompe l'oeil details were fascinating and created a real talking point....and of course there was the signature bow. All in all, Alessandro Michele pulled out all the stops and created an incredible collection.
Emilio Pucci
Serving up a change for the brands SS16 collection, the new Creative Director Massimo Giorgetti steered away from the bold and wonderful prints we usually see at Pucci and instead opted for plenty of embroidery. With literal references to the sea, an array of sea creatures were embroidered onto fishnet dresses. My favourite pieces in the collection were the sequin dresses layered over delicate lace tops and the multi-coloured feather dress encased in between mesh panels.
In a standout colour palette of bold primary colours and sea shell pink, this collection hit all the right notes. Asymmetric layers, plenty of tunic dresses, sporty tech mesh and modern geo's - this collection made a bold statement without being OTT. The large scale floral and leave prints were a key print from MFW.
Marco De Vincenzo
From the opening look on the runway, I was sold on this collection. An incredible coat with shredded bands of black and primary colours was a real standout piece, and this technique continued on some of the dresses. Known for his use of metallic, we saw shimmering fabrics and coloured metallic prints. There were also references to Japan, most notably on the bold Mt Fiji prints. I adored the mix of techniques, creating a contemporary collection of high interest.
Boxy silhouettes and optional layering, this collection was distinctly Prada. Skirts fell below the knee in traditional proportions and came in fabrics such as tweed, leather and suede. One of the key features of the collection was the narrow lined stripes which featured on a number of different style garments. Adding to the luxurious nature of the Italian fashion house, exotic snakeskin and beautiful transparent organza where used to create the more show stopping looks in the collection.
Alberta Ferreti
Bohemian and safari references were present in shades of brown and other earthy colours. Loose silhouettes were easy to wear and had a romantic feel to them. Strong prints and heavy embroidered dresses completed the evening looks in the collection. The fabric manipulation on the chiffon dresses was just so beautiful and made a softer more feminine addition to the collection.
An opulent collection on the runway of Etro, full of dresses which you couldn't help but fall in love with. Luxe fabrics and flouncy silhouettes provided the base for some seriously beautiful prints and embroidery. Prints were inspired by European folk costumes and came in flattering colours.
Bottega Veneta
The 'Great Outdoors' was the theme of the show this season. Classic proportions had a casual overhaul bomber jackets tracksuits. An urban camo print features prominently, as did leopard print. Grommet detailing, lace and textured embroidery made the collection sophisticated. The red python patchwork coat was pretty much summed up the highly-crafted appeal of the brand.
Red, coral and khaki were the most prominent colours used in this collection. One of the key silhouettes was the bloomer style leather. I also loved the high necked tops with billowing sleeves. Karl Largerfeld certainly has fun with this brand creating upbeat modern looks.
This collection had the key characteristics of a signature Versace collection: Short hemlines, daring cut-outs, bold colours and of appeal. A punchy camo/skin print echoed across several looks in the collection, which I feel is one of the most memorable from Milan. This collection was all about confidence feeling empowered.

I will be posting my Paris Fashion Week Top 10 next week, followed by a series of trend reports to analyse what we have seen this season.

Phillippa x

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