Wednesday, 23 September 2015

London Fashion Week - Top 10

Jonathan Saunders
A colourist and print specialist, Saunders did not disappoint loyal fans with his latest offering. Diagonal colour blocking had a striking impact, as did the patchwork of one colour prints. 'Colour on colour prints' were a recurring theme throughout the collection. Bias cuts, loose fitting wrap jackets, one-shoulder dresses and monochrome belts completed the collection.
Christopher Kane
What I loved most about the collection was the neon lace which gave major throwbacks to Kane's earlier collections, think SS07 and SS11. This collection was nothing short of fun, with rebellious spray-paint prints, plastic cut-outs and  fractured patchworks. A key feature of the collection was the the plastic 'restraint' tags which adorned bags and the models wore in their hair.
The theme of the show was 'Havana', which continues the emerging Cuba trend which came through from Resort. As always with Temperley, embroidery played a big role in the collection. Mirrored embroidery was key and came in  the prettiest of colour palettes and metallic. Classic cotton dresses were given an update with  palm leaf and parrot prints. From day to night, this collection was a sartorial summer dream.
Without a doubt, the Burberry Prorsum show is the ultimate LFW show to attend. Once again, Christopher Bailey showcased his exceptional ability to combine Burberry's British heritage with modern day femininity and relevance. Pretty pastel shades came into play against a backdrop of predominantly black and off-white. Tie-dye motifs and abstract poppy prints added a playful edge to the collection. Gold regalia detailing on trims, embroidered motifs and piping finished off the garments with exceptional precision. The nylon and leather backpacks added an everyday ease and will for sure be the must have accessory of the can even shop this item now over on
Mary Katrantzou
Each season Katrantzou goes from strength to strength. Micro mini's, jewel coloured quilted dresses, handcrafted metallic embellishment. I loved the small-scale floral prints were beautiful and added a further dimension to the collections. Katrantzou's collections are every evolving and the designer continues to push the boundaries of her own brand.
From the very first look the role of Victoriana as a theme was clear to see - The high-necked dresses adorned with strewn floral prints and delicate embroidery, and it wouldn't be Victoriana without lace. Loose waterfall ruffles added a romantic feel, but there was also an element of dark despair which ran through collection present notably in the black neck ties.
Peter Pilotto
This was a much softer look for the brand. The duo behind the brand used to be known for their vibrant digital prints, but recently they have shifted away from this opting instead for simplistic geo prints and cleaner lines. The largely blue and white collection featured lots of lace and below the knee dresses and skirts, all with a super feminine feel.
Emerging as three of the key colours of the season: buttercup yellow, baby blue and sunburnt orange, Roksanda Ilincic used all three. Voluminous shapes are not easy to wear, but the women who wear Roksanda dresses pull them off with ease. Asymmetric styles, cut-outs and shredded chiffon detailing were also important features.
Paul Smith
The most beautiful soft draping in David Hockney inspired colours. Large scale silk screen printed motifs added a clash of colour to the already highly sophisticated collection. Masculine tailoring made for easy to wear silhouettes. Sir Paul Smith is truly a master of British fashion and any of these looks would make a welcome addition to your wardrobe.
Keith Haring style squiggle prints were hard to miss, especially when seen in contrasting black and white. The ruched dress with zip detailing layered worn over lace leggings was a great combo, as was the blue and red bustier and mini skirt combo. This may not be the sort of collection that everyone would want to wear but the unexpected nature of the print, fabric and tailoring made this collection very captivating. Anderson is most certainly an avant-garde designer, elevating London further in the fashion stakes. Keep watching this space...

I will be posting my Milan Top 10 next week, but until then stay tuned to my 'Runway Favourites' board on Pinterest for an extensive look at all the collections (details below).

Phillippa x

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