Where does the time go??? New York fashion week is already over for another season. As the first fashion week of the A/W 17 season has just drawn to a close, and as I do each season, I will be reviewing my Top 10 collections from each city. Starting with NYFW...
Raf Simons made his debut at the helm of the brand this season and his long awaited collection was well received. Sharp tailored pieces, in bold primary colours, were very commercially viable and played on an 'Americana' theme along with cowboy boots. Classic wardrobe staples were also present, with suit jackets and relaxed trousers featuring heavily. Oversized geometric prints added an extra dimension to the collection whilst beautifully delicate ostrich feather / organza dresses and jacquard separates were amongst the standout pieces.
Fluidity is one of the key words that comes to mind with a Sies Marjan collection, second to the importance of colour. Liquid silk dresses with trailing hems were ultra feminine with a slight sporty feel at the same time. Ruched panels on dresses were a welcome addition, whilst the use of metallic fabrics created some exciting evening pieces. Hot fuchsia dresses stood out against a backdrop of calm softer tones. Fast becoming of of NYFW's most sought after shows.
Like many designers, Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne opted to make a political statement with their collection. Slogans such as "Make America New York" and "We Need Leaders' were emblazoned on caps and Strong 90's street style vibes, oversized proportions and quilted jackets, were seen throughout. The theme of deconstruction was present with cropped knits, which looked as though they had been torn, and tartan jackets with unzipped sleeves.
Sliced dresses have become somewhat of a signature for the brand, and once again this season the offerings were technically brilliant. Strong layered looks and bold colours created impact. A genius intarsia knit dress, which looked to have an abstract pattern, was in fact a reimagined version of of the brands logo. Lacquered shearling coats and pants will be a 'must have' look for Fall. From next season, the brand will be showing during the Couture schedule in Paris.
Emphasis was on dresses with silk button fastenings, as it has been for the past few seasons at the brand. Chunky knitted sweaters were some of the best seen in New York this season, these were layered over long-sleeved delicately printed dresses. Camo fur intarsia's were statement pieces, and the loose hand-painted floral prints added a nice injection of colour. Coloured tights might just catch on for next season as well, as we did these during the Pre Fall presentations.
'Fractured' was the title of Michelle Smith's A/W 17 offering. If you follow Michelle's instagram you will know that she was loyal supporter of Hilary Clinton and the Womens March that followed shortly after Trump's inauguration. Given all of this, Smith was reflecting on this time of change whilst designing her collection. Championing the use of 'shirting' the past few seasons, Smith continued this with button-down mens shirts and trailing statement sleeves. Knotted and ripped knits were particularly good especially when teamed with leather pants and sneakers.
More signature shirting techniques from the design duo, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia. They showed their Monse collection directly before their debut collection for Oscar de la Renta. The term 'twisted tailoring' has been coined to describe their favoured technique which they use on dresses and shirts. Power shirts. with ruffled collars. looked 'tough' worn under structured blazers and waists were cinched in with studded leather belts. The sequined gowns which closed the show were inspired by the artist Pat Steir, and had the effect of dripping paint.
Diane von Furstenberg
Jonathan Saunders continued to explore the brands love of all things textiles - colour, print and texture. Loosely draped silk wrap dresses came in rich Fall colours with easy on the eye subtle prints. Scarf hems were also a popular choice for evening dresses, as were sequins and paillettes. Accessories matched this theme, with hooped necklaces and bag charms. Oversized fur coats added an extra element of luxe to this charming collection...I want one of everything!
Pairing blazers with midi skirts was a key look for the Victoria Beckham show, coming in suitably appropriate Fall colours - burgundy and navy. More tartan, which was seen on jackets creating a rather English feel tot he collection. The trend for sporty zip-up dresses and jackets, shows no sign of slowing down anytime soon, Beckham showed both. Graphic abstract prints were inspired by a Paul Nash exhibition at the Tate Britain. Easy tailoring made for a very wearable collection.
3.1 Phillip Lim
The artist James Turrell's work inspired a beautiful soft print in hues of pink and purple. This print was paired with Yves Klein blue dresses and suits, all cut in empowering silhouettes. Overall the collection was romantic with hints of subtle sexuality in the form of leather corsets layered over mesh tops. The macro trend for oversized quilted jackets was also present, belted at the waist with tough metal hoops. Silk metallic boots completed the look.
Stay tuned...I will be posting my LFW review on Wednesday.
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