Disney's 'Fantasia' was the starting reference for Mary Katrantzou's latest collection. Not only citing the colour and visual aspects of the film, Katrantzou also acknowledged the decade in which the film was released - the 1940's. Striking digital prints in explosive colours, provided a backdrop for intense embellishment. Along with the more statement evening dresses, came much more wearable everyday pieces: knitted pullovers, tailored trousers and boxy houndstooth jackets. I also loved the use of mixing rich velvets into the collection.
The designer has mastered the art of 'movement', evolving his brand each season whilst remaining true to the core of what his brand represents. Expertly using different materials, this season including chainmail, Anderson continues to experiment but the final result always looks sophisticated and well put together. Ostrich feathers cascaded from the hems of floral print dresses and mid length skirts. As always, draping is key to a J.W.Anderson collection and for Fall scoop necks were one of the main features. Bell skirts and zipped bustier tops added femininity.
Thea Bregazzi cited the suffragette movement as a point of direction for this collection, very apt given the recent Women's Marches. The collection overall was very OTT, with bold floral printed quilted jackets. Tulle was layered over dresses adding an extra dimension to the looks, but for me the standout pieces were the intricately ruffled jackets and shirts. The full collection was very cohesive and will certainly work well in editorials.
Linton tweed jackets and embroidered riding boots were references to Christopher de Vos's Peruvian heritage. Ombre knitwear in navy, orange and olive provided a perfect Fall colour combination, and the loose silhouettes added a relaxed feel. The trend for oversized sleeves also shows no sign of slowing down, as most pieces in this collection came with long-length sleeves. Asymmetric hems and expressive hand-painted patterns were printed onto vibrant velvet.
The Ottoman Empire, Sultans and 18th and 19th century women - all referenced by Erdem Moralioglu for A/W 17. Nods to Islamic art and traditional folk embroideries were rich and sophisticated. Luxurious fabrics including velvet, jacquard and lace provided a strong base for print and embellishment. There is always an element of 'costume' with an Erdem collection, but with such a distinct brand identity the finished result is always relevant.
Signature metallic pleated skirts were thrown into the mix, along with cross-over jackets constructed from decadent damasks. Spaceship prints adorned floor length dresses and were teamed with acidic yellow trainers. Oversized 3-D beaded flowers were appliqued onto silk and sequin dresses. The collection on the whole had a variety of daywear and evening pieces, which will be music to the ears of Kane's loyal devotee's.
Johnny Coca looked to the brands quintessential English heritage for his latest offering. Checks, capes, cable knits and pussy-bow blouses came in soft Autumnal colours and will be you go-to pieces for your Fall wardrobe. Beautifully draped dresses were classic Mulberry, whilst printed metallic pleated skirts were more contemporary. the floral prints were romantic and very wearable. Also worth mentioning is the statement oversized mono sunglasses.
Christopher Bailey cited the work of artist and sculptor Henry Moore as the inspiration behind Burberry's AW17 collection. Heralding from Yorkshire, the same as Bailey, Moore's use of 'form' was clear to see in this offering. The use of shirting and asymmetric cuts has been a huge global trend as of late, and Burberry's re-imagining of this look was stunning. Off-the-shoulder cable knits were slashed at the waist and layered over cotton and lace mix dresses with Elizabethan ruffles. Off beat Moore intarsia sweatshirts and prints added a unique spin on the collection, taking motifs that you wouldn't typically consider as 'fashion prints' and making them ever so desirable. Colours were clean and neutral. Overall, expertly executed and as always i'd like one of everything please!
90's bias-cut slip dresses were the order of the day at Topshop Unique, mixed with further 90's vibes in the form of zipped-up sweaters and slogan sweatshirts. Instead of going full on 90's street style, the collection remained feminine with ulta-pretty floral prints and flattering cuts. With this being a premium highstreet collection everything was super wearable with relevant pieces for both and night, and plenty of layering separates. 50% of the collection is available now on the see-now-buy-now structure which more and more brands are increasingly adopting.
This collection was evident that the 'Vetements' effect is widely being felt within the fashion industry. Oversized silhouettes looked like a masculine uniform, but still had feminine undertones. the delicately embroidered body worn under a leather suit. there was also an element of the undone about the collection - frayed hems.,raw edges and noticeable stitches. the hot pink/olive green colour combo was also on point for Fall.
My Milan fashion week report will be posted next week.
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