Saturday, 5 March 2016

Spring 16 Couture - Review

The Spring 16 Couture shows took place in January. Here is my review of what we saw...
This season, Karl Lagerfeld took on the concept of 'sustainability'. The minimalist set featured green lawns, lily ponds and a pavilion, all designed to be recycled post show. On closer inspection of the garments, the true scale of the 'sustainable' aesthetic could be seen - Wood chips were used as beading and paillettes. The heavily beaded gowns were like a theatrical spectacular!
Atelier Versace
As always it was signature Versace: skin on display, thigh-high splits, cut-outs, sheer panels, plunging necklines, neon pops and a celebration of the female figure. This is daring and fun couture! Twisted rope straps held together risqué dresses which had a distinctively sporty vibe. 
Christian Dior
After being rocked by the departure of Raf Simons last year, this collection was put together by the team at Dior with the absence of a Creative Director. Under Raf's supervision, Dior had been steered towards a younger audience the past few seasons. This collection followed suit. Off the shoulder silhouettes and low cut necklines were modern, whilst boxy jackets and bell sleeves offered something more traditional. But I need to ask, where were the real statement gowns?
20th Century Venetian Romanticism was the foundation of this collection. An extraordinary use of fabric and texture was showcased across these garments: velvet, silk, pleating, gold lattice work, embroidery, ostrich feathers, patchwork...the list goes on. This collection was so rich in heritage and in artisanal execution, it really was a wonder to marvel at.
Elie Saab
With strong cultural Indian references as a starting point, underpinned with  Edwardian silhouettes, this collection was as beautiful as ever. Soft tailoring and an even softer colour palette, created a wonderfully feminine collection. Exquisite beaded capelets, sari sashes and floor length embellished gowns, swished  along the runway. One of the biggest surprises here, was the footwear - who would have thought jewel encrusted silver boots could look so good paired with a couture gown?
Armani Prive
A distinctively mauve affair this season at Armani Prive. Experimental silhouettes are one of the things Armani do best when it comes to couture. Never over-complicating matters with jewellery or headpieces, this collection spoke to those who love old Hollywood glamour. These are the ultimate, sophisticated, red carpet gowns - the tiered ruffled gowns being my favourite, as well as the pleated flowing gown with fading floral print. Cate Blanchett will be delighted!
Giambattista Valli
Giambattista collections are always so fresh and modern. Short hemlines and voluminous sleeves have become something of a signature formula for success. Pretty floral embroideries added little hints of colour to the largely white and black colour palette and of course this being Giambattista there were exaggerated ruffled organza gowns, à la Rihanna at the Grammy Awards.
Zuhair Murad
Cascading beaded and floral gowns were the most fairytale like of all the Couture collections this season. Corsetry played a big part in the forming the silhouette seen on the runway, whilst the colour palette of choice consisted of powdery pastel hues and crisp white.
Ulyana Sergeenko
Always inspired by Russia, for Spring 16 this fashion house played with 80's silhouettes. Voluminous sleeves and Va Va Voom corsetry formed this dramatic collection. Each look was different from the last and I look forward to seeing how this dresses translate onto the red carpet.
If you love couture then be sure to follow my 'Couture Fashion' board on my Pinterest page (details below). You will find a more extensive look at the full collections each season.
Phillippa x
Twitter - @Phillippa22
Pinterest - phillippadesign
Instagram - PhillippaDesign22

No comments:

Post a Comment