Wednesday, 2 March 2016

Milan Fashion Week - A/W16 - Top 10

Here is my Top 10 collections review from Milan Fashion Week...
Alessandro Michele pulls references from so many different era's, it would be easy to make the collection look confused, but he has ability to make everything look cohesive. Michele's collections for Gucci have been a huge commercial success and this season there were plenty of looks to fight over - the fur trimmed coats, metallic jacquard suits, satin bomber jackets, embroidered serpent motifs, an array of hats, oversized fur coats and those vintage inspired gowns with layers of tulle. All the above in striking colours.
Emilio Pucci
This season Massimo Giorgetti's second collection for Pucci was much more wearable. After receiving mixed reviews last season, I was thrilled to see a much more focused collection. Gone was the embroidery and back were the bold colours and striking geometric prints. Ski slope prints, also seen at Peter Pilotto, added a nod to athleisure. Oversized knitwear and boxy dresses added volume to the collection and overall I loved the styling...not to mention the boots!
Plenty of great daywear looks in this collection: belted coats, blazers, ski pants and biker jackets. Pops of neon yellow were paired with soft grey shades and icy blue was paired with fluro coral. I loved the sense of energy that came through in this collection and the fact that it was not too overtly sexy, as can sometimes be the case. The ribbed knitwear pieces were amongst my favourites, along with the bold wavy prints which were spliced and patched together.
Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce and Gabbana always put on a real showstopper of a show, and this collection was no different. The title of this A/W offering was  'Fabulous Fantasy', and was inspired by fairytales. Clocks, magic mirrors, hot air balloons, Princess towers, carriages, mice, cats, teddy bears and wind-up toys all became embroidered and printed motifs. Dogtooth fabric with oversized applique flowers was a key look, as were classic floral bloom prints. The crochet teddy bear jacket was my favourite - Would I wear it? No / Was it amazing? Yes
As always with Marni, you can expect colour blocking and perfectly oversized silhouettes. The bell sleeves were a thing of beauty, adding volume and depth to dresses and shirts. The trousers were my favourite I have seen this season, with large pockets and huge buttons. There were even more oversized details with large paillettes embellished onto jackets.
Salvatore Ferragamo
I adored the clean lines and carefully cut silhouettes at Ferragamo, made all the better with some seriously lust worthy colour blocking. Knitwear with button detailing layered over sophisticated pleated dresses, and skirts with full length zips were my personal highlights. Striking geometric prints were juxtaposed against elegant Italian craftsmanship.
This season, Prada enlisted artist Christophe Chemin to create bespoke prints for the collection. These surrealist prints, which featured on full skirts and dresses, added depth to the collection which had multiple layers. Speaking backstage, Miuccia Prada said that this season the Prada woman is a 'Vagabond'. That concept of being a traveller and wandering from one place to the next, came through in the collection, especially in the sailor hats, 40's cocktail dresses and Russian silhouettes. The accessories were also plentiful.
 Roberto Cavalli
Flamboyant 70's references reigned supreme at Cavalli this season. Peter Dundas is a self-proclaimed fan of this style, so he is right at home at the helm of the brand. The collection had a predominantly evening feel to it, with free flowing/floor sweeping gowns, metallic flared trousers, velvet dresses with cut-out details and fur trims. Prints were rich in detail.
I love Missoni, each season producing exciting knitwear pieces in a range of beautiful colours. This season I loved the lurex dresses, which actually had more of a summer feel to them. Continuing the popularity for cool trainers as daywear, Missoni created a number of pairs with their signature knitwear patterns - which are sure to be a hit! Long scarves also featured prominently.
Alberta Ferretti
A beautiful and feminine collection inspired by the 'boudoir', dresses had lace inserts and lingerie details. Silk pyjama style jumpsuits had soft floral prints and as always embroidery detailing was exquisite. Luxurious fabrics including: velvet, silk, fur and wool added glamour to the collection. With a backdrop of trees, this A/W offering was dark and romantic rolled into one.

I will be posting my PFW report on Monday 14th March, but until then make sure you are following my 'Runway Favourites' board on Pinterest (details below). I post all the best runway collections as and when they happen.

Phillippa x

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