Monday, 14 March 2016

Paris Fashion Week - A/W16 - Top 10

Here is my Top 10 runway review from Paris Fashion Week...
Louis Vuitton
Nicholas Ghesquiere continued his reign at the helm of LV with this incredible A/W collection. The concept behind the collection - a Tomb Raider like character who discovers an archaeological site. The full collection had a distinct athletic vibe to it with sculptured leather jackets, baseball sweatshirts and colour-blocked tube dresses. Leather pants in black and red were paired with laced combat boots. Archive scarf prints featured on silk skirts and dresses with leather trims. This is one of my favourite A/W collections from this season.
Clare Waight Keller referenced Anne-France Dautherville as her inspiration for A/W16. Dautherville travelled across Europe in the 70's on a motorbike, and when you think about it making her the most perfect Chloe muse. Chloe embodies the free-spirited and festival girl chic look, contrasting against the fast-paced tech world that we live in. There were signature Chloe frills, statement coloured knitwear and pretty boho dresses. It was a dream from start to finish and the neck scarves are sure to be a key look next season.
Maximalism was the order of the day at Kenzo. Japanese anime was a point of reference, notable in the puffed sleeve shirts and A-line mini skirts. Fabric was manipulated into tight pleats and was also ruffled on billowing silhouettes.  Prints were on PVC dresses and florals/checks/animal skins were all patched together creating an eclectic look.
Ricardo Tisci took cited Egypt as a source of inspiration for his A/W16 collection. Large scale Mandala prints adorned dresses and added an element of vibrancy to this dark collection. Snake skin and leopard print sat alongside each other, and came in warm earthy tones. The trompe l’oeil court shoe/knee high boots will no doubt be a popular choice come Fall.
Miu Miu
Miuccia Prada's latest collection for Miu Miu featured a wide use of different fabric; denim, jacquard, tweed, satin, velvet, fur, brocade, waxed cotton and wool. Looks were traditional, but styling was edgy with lots of layering used to great effect. Military tailoring came into play on jackets and off the shoulder cotton dresses and short skirts had a younger appeal.
Whilst Dior is still in a transitional period, the fashion house if still without a Creative Director, the in-house team are holding down the fort. I have to say, I loved this collection. Silhouettes were young and fresh but still classic. The 'Off the shoulder' look which was popular for S/S16, featured prominently in this collection, featuring on numerous jackets and dresses. The two main prints were textured and abstract paisleys. The patchwork ankle boots are an A/W must have.
Yet more off the shoulder silhouettes at Demna Gvasali's first collection as Creative Director at Balenciaga. I adored the statement floral prints, which reminded me of what Nicholas Ghesquiere did at the brand a few years back. These florals were on billowing and boxy silhouettes and worn over candy-striped tights. Tailored coats and classic plaid dresses were cool everyday pieces, whereas the oversized ski jackets made a bigger sartorial statement.
Esteban Cortazar
Streetwear pieces were a key feature in this collection, but what I loved the most were the inventive silhouettes and choice of fabric. Leather cut-out tops, leather overalls, ribbed velvet trousers, wide leg denim trousers and Mongolian fur trimmed dresses. My favourite look was the oversized hot pink jacket - seriously amazing! The colours were also a huge appeal.
It seems Kim Kardashian was the muse for Olivier Rousteing's latest collection at Balmain, but love it or hate it the formula works. Curvy silhouettes were created with waist cinching belts, corsetry and bell shaped skirts. Rococo beaded mini dresses with peal details and tassel hems were red carpet worthy. A colour palette of grey, blush and icy blue was ultra feminine, whereas the black and green combo added more drama. Fabrics included: suede, lace and brocade.
As always, Valentino's show was beautiful. The main inspiration this season was ballet with models wearing tutu style dresses layered over long sleeved warm-up tops and paired with ballet flats and footless tights . The show-stopping gowns in the collection consisted of layers of tulle and delicate silver embroidery. Colours were soft and feminine.
This concludes my A/W16 fashion month city reviews. I hope you have enjoyed my insight into the A/W collections, giving you an indication of some of the trends and key looks we will be seeing next season. As always on my blog, I will be putting together trendboards based on what we have seen on the runway. These will follow over the next few weeks.
For more catwalk collections, follow my 'Runway Favourites' board on Pinterest (details below). I have posted an extensive selection of all the A/W16 collections, not just my top 10.
Which collections have been your favourite this season? Which designers surprised you and who disappointed?
Phillippa x
Twitter - @Phillippa22
Pinterest - phillippadesign
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  1. Wow so many colours and prints. I haven't even thought about my summer wardrobe let alone AW16! You're ahead of the game x

    1. Thank You. I LOVE looking to the catwalk for inspiration! So many great emerging trends coming through this season. x