With 90s references and a cool sporty feel, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon created one of the most vibrant collections that we saw in Paris this season. Bold prints that screamed 'look at me' adorned several of the looks in the collection, and pieces that were not printed were still electric in colour. Overall inspiration came from the notion of a well-travelled modern woman on a never ending summer vacation.
This was one of the prettiest collections we have seen at McQueen in recent years. The exceptionally beautiful collection came in a range of soft hues and featured the most exquisite embroidery and detailing. 17th Century Huguenots were a key source of inspiration, and this historic context was brought to life in the most romantic way possible: Cascading ruffles, lace, fine stitches all with couture level of finesse. The soft florals were inspired by French flowers woven onto silk and were an ethereal dream!
Dries Van Noten
Faded Hollywood Glamour in jewel tones showcased by a continued use of luxurious fabrics such as Jacquard, brocade and opulent shot silk. The collection was rich in it use of colour and in it theme, tribal and tattoo-esque motifs. Winglike prints also featured heavily in the collection. All in all, this was Dries Van Noten doing what they do best.
The 90-strong look collection was music to my ears, with each runway look filing me with excitement. Tie-Dye has been one of the main emerging print trends, and Valentino delivered one of the best we have seen. The collection had African safari influences, which came in many forms: the colours, the fabric and most prominently the safari animal prints in a traditional woodblock style. Signature delicate embroidery and tailoring will please the Valentino clientele.
McCartney has always applied an 'effortless' approach to her collections, creating easy to wear pieces which are both comfortable and stylish. There was an air of fluidity in the silhouettes of the dresses which came pleated, with knitted inserts, and in acidic hues. There was a very strong emphasis on summer knitwear in the collection, which we saw on tunics, oversized pullovers, tube skirts and slouchy track pants. The checks were a key feature and perfect for that laid-back vibe.
I can't recall a Chloe collection which have not fallen in love with. No brand does summer dressing better than Chloe, led by Clare Waight Keller, and this season was no different. Chloe being Chloe, we saw peasant tops and billowing off the shoulder dresses but this season there was major 90's throwbacks in the form of tracksuits, frayed denim pieces and dungarees. The colour palette was super feminine as always. The 2 colour paisley print which was constructed of small linear florals was one of the most commercial prints we saw on the catwalk in Paris.
Raf Simons stated that this collection was fuss free, steering away from bold colours and embellishment opting instead for quieter pieces. Soft rainbow stripes, Victoriana style nightdresses and scalloped hemmed shorts and dresses created the perfect everyday ready-to-wear sophisticated summer wardrobe.
Known for evening wear, this season the focus was more on a mix of day and night separates. Bomber jackets in wide candy stripes added a very youthful flare to the collection. Broderie anglaise, macrame lace, exquisite embellished dresses and feminine pussybow detailing will please loyal Elie Saab fans, whereas the lace pants, leather mini dresses will attract a different kind of Saab consumer. The sketchy floral print with splashes of vibrant colour was one of my favourite prints of the entire SS16 season.
A merge between digital technology and nature was the order of the day for Nicolas Ghesquiere's latest collection at LV. The model 'cyberpunks' sported leather biker jackets, metallic embroidered dresses and some killer accessories. The standout spaceship prints featured on pants and jumpsuits. For all it's attitude, the collection still had a feminine undertone with soft pastel pink and flouncy skirts with plenty of bounce.
Alexander Wang took his final bow at Balenciaga with this all-white collection. A much quieter showing than we have seen from recent Balenciaga collections, Wang made the collection his own with his signature sporty style. Lingerie dressing was the key theme, with slips and bra's featuring throughout. There was a relaxed elegant ease in the collection and the attention detail in the simple stitches and ruching detail made this one of the best SS16 collections from Paris.
So that is a wrap…fashion month is over for another 6 months. Over the next couple of weeks I will be posting a series of trend and colour reports so be sure to follow me on my other social media accounts to be kept informed. If you didn't already know, I post 3 times a week on my blog so I will have lots of additional exciting content coming soon as well.
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