Saturday 20 February 2016

New York Fashion Week - AW16 - Top 10

As always on my blog, I review each city during 'Fashion Month'. This is the busiest time of the year for both my blog and professionally, as I work for a luxury fashion brand. This season designers are showing their A/W16 collections, which means we usually see heavier fabrics, darker colours and splashes of metallic. New York fashion week wrapped up earlier this week and I have selected my Top 10 collections...
Proenza Schouler
A key feature of this collection was the lace fastenings - loosely tied on jackets, tops and dresses. Another recurring style was the rib knit dress. Seen in previous seasons, this time they came in five different colour options including red and yellow. Asymmetric silhouettes on jackets, patent coats and statement patchwork fur pieces completed the collection.
Rodarte
The Mulleavy sisters can do no wrong! Marking the 10th anniversary of the brand this season, the A/W16 collection further proved Rodarte's exceptional use of imagination, embellishment, texture and romance. Fur, leather, lace, ruffles and mesh were key features, and I particularly liked the inclusion of a loosely drawn floral print.
Altuzarra
The oversized shearling outerwear from this collection would have been the ideal garment to wear in New York this past week, given the -15 degree temperature. The Indian inspired paisley prints and jacquards had a charming gypsy feel to them, paired with fringing detailing evoked this spirit even more. Handkerchief-hem dresses were the highlight of the collection for me, either embellished or printed and layered over turtleneck tops. It also had huge appeal that all my favourite colours were used: fuchsia, emerald, sapphire.
Milly
Known for her use of exciting textiles, this season Michelle Smith included a variety of interesting fabrics on an array of different silhouettes. Dresses came in a number of styles with; billowing skirts, spaghetti straps and off the shoulder looks . The bralet has become something of a Milly signature and this season they were layered over shirts and long-sleeved knitwear separates to great effect. The chosen colour palette for the season worked harmoniously together.
Victoria Beckham
Out of all of the NY shows, this collection was probably the one I would want to wear the most. Stripes, checks and houndstooth were the order of the day, featuring on  the majority of looks. The bustier was another key feature, seen on dresses, tops and knitwear. I also loved the pairing of the below the knee dresses with the pointed flat shoes, creating stylish yet practical daywear.
Prabal Gurung
The notion of undress was played with in this collection - sleeves falling off the shoulder and slashed hemlines with unfastened buttons. It added a subtle hint of allure to the collection. There was also a beautiful feather print, seen on a few dresses and even a fur coat. The soft tailoring and easy to wear silhouettes were offset against more structured leather dresses, chunky knitwear and huge fur coats.
Marchesa
You can always rely on Marchesa for a stunning display of red carpet worthy dresses - and this season was no different. A array of decadent gowns swept down the runway, with all kinds of wonderful embellishments. Organza florals, fringing, ruffles, ostrich feathers and metallic embroideries all in rich fall colours.
Delpozo
It goes without saying that Josep Font always brightens up the runway at NYFW with his bold architectural silhouettes and brave use of colour. Oversized sleeves, exaggerated shapes and origami detailing created a runway show full of 'Wow' looks. The bold styles were contrasted with easier to wear pleated skirts and a beautiful crisp white satin jumpsuit. The Delpozo aesthetic is now instantly recognisable.
Jonathan Simkhai
Architect Santiago Calatrava was listed as a source of inspiration for this collection. Simkhai's use of intricate lace is exquisite, pushing the boundaries of how we are used to seeing lace being used in fashion.  Silhouettes were long and lean, with the occasional use of fur being thrown into the mix for a contrasting effect. All looks were highly polished in crisp colours.
Tory Burch
There was a distinct equestrian feel to this collection, with an oversized horse print, jodhpurs, saddle bags and silk scarves. A beautiful mix of 'to be expected' fall colours and everyday silhouettes made for a collection that was super wearable. All garments will be easy to mix and match with other pieces already in your wardrobe, making them timeless classics which you can wear over and over again.
 
I will be posting my London Fashion Week review on Saturday 27th, so stay tuned for that. In the meantime, you can follow my 'Runway Favourites' board on my Pinterest page (details below) for an extensive look at all the A/W16 shows as and when they happen.
 
Phillippa x
 
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