Prada
This season's collection was a dystopian offering. Neon brights and colour popping fluro's lit up the runway, along with digital blurred floral prints. Netted tulle was used to layer over dresses and jackets, and marked a stark contrast against the thick classic tweed. In some guises, the tweed in question was fashioned into corsets. Tech fabrics such as nylon and rubber further modernised the collection. I particularly liked the colour-blocked layering and oversized grey shearling jackets.
Marni
Francesco Risso titled his collection 'Technoprimitivism' - a contrast between our love of technology and movements of the soul. Many of the day dresses, were made to look as if they had been constructed from scraps of material with raw hems and naive stitches. As always with Marni, we saw extreme colour-blocking and off beat prints - my favourite of which was an illustration of a cat face. Nylon outerwear was also a recurring theme throughout. Playing with the idea of sustainability, which can be difficult for brands and retailers to achieve, a couple of the coats were made from compressed recycled textiles - you would never have guessed it. The surprising flecks of colour made these coats some of the standout pieces in the collection.
Gucci
Ok so at first glance I was not that enamoured with the latest Gucci collection - models carrying severed heads and pet dragons was not exactly to my taste...but then you have to expect the unexpected with Gucci! The collection was called 'Cyborg' and was a conversation about identity. As a brand with such global appeal, there were many cross-cultural references including: Russian inspired coats, English tweed and Chinese pyjamas. Gucci collections are always complex, with many different citations and points of interest. Amongst my favourite looks were the floral/abstract printed dresses and the 20's inspired chainmail dresses. Expect to see the later shimmying on the red carpet very soon...
Versace
I can't deny that the first thing that sprung to mind when I saw this collection, was Cher Horowitz in the 1995 film classic Clueless. Punk inspired primary coloured tartan was sexed up for the runway, and came on pretty much every garment type including mini skirts, knitwear and accessories. It was bold and brash, in an unashamedly 80's/90's way, but very wearable at the same time. Total head-to-toe looks might be too much some, but as separates teamed with classic black they will slot into your wardrobe seamlessly.
Roberto Cavalli
Cavalli collections are always glamorous with a nod to the exotic, cue textured leathers and animal prints. Dreamy autumnal hues ran through the collection and sometimes these came together on ombre silks. Vampy red patent was seen on jackets, and handkerchief hems were a key feature. It wouldn't be Cavalli without some skin on show, and this season Paul Surridge presented slinky dresses with daring cutouts and fringing. The collection was nothing groundbreaking, but will no doubt please loyal fans of the brand.
Phillippa x
Twitter - @Phillippa22
Instagram - phillippa22
Pinterest - phillippadesign
No comments:
Post a Comment