Eccentric is what Gucci does - rich embroideries, maximalist prints and an abundance of historical and cultural references. Alessandro Michele creates his own fashion rules, avoiding all conventions. The complexity of the collection, 'The Alchemist's Garden', was evident to see in the 120 strong model line-up complete with colour clashes and a riot of layering and different textures. Referencing 17th and 18th century chinoiserie, commercial daywear pieces ran alongside floor length red carpet worthy gowns. As always with Gucci, the accessories were pretty major and will inevitably be seen on every fashion editor and street style blogger world over.
Ostrich feathers swooshed down the runway on the oversized hems of skirts and dresses, in what was my favourite Prada collection of the past few seasons. The multicoloured collection was a feast for the eyes, rich in texture and detail. 70's corduroy suits and baker boy hats opened the show, with an air of masculinity, but the show transcended into a visual display of fur coats, geometric knits, heritage tweed and playfully printed dresses.
Acid brights were the order of the day at Pucci. Neon lime capes and hot pink draped dresses with floor length fringing graced the runway, in silhouettes which echoed the recent phenomenon of such styles at the likes of Balenciaga and Celine. Signature prints were spliced and came in cool mint green and vibrant orange. A marble print was a departure for the Italian brand, but worked well on suits. Printed velvet trousers resulted in a relaxed 70's glam look.
Like many designers this season, Donatella made a statement about equality. Hats and t-shirts emblazoned with words such as: Loyalty, Unity and Love - which are sure to be a commercial hit! Edgy street style pieces, including quilted jackets and mono lens sunglasses, were thrown into the mix alongside fierce eveningwear. The eveningwear in question, featured chainmail dresses, sheer detailing and the occasional slashed panel. Strong colour combo's of black, yellow and blue looked electric on the runway, whilst the coloured hair extensions will most likely catch on.
Fendi collections can so often be OTT, but for Fall Karl Lagerfeld presented a very wearable offering. Classic tweed coats were given a Fendi twist with signature fur trims and were paired with tailored separates. A vine leaf print made its way onto dresses but was also used as an intarsia on fur coats. Overall the collection looked somewhat traditional, with muted colours but an element of risque was added with red patent skirts and sheer tops.
Jackets came with exaggerated shoulders and elongated sleeves and marked a stark contrast to the softer tailored pants and skirts. Rodolfo Paglialunga also took on the trend for quilting, with petrol blue and Bordeaux styles. All pieces in the collection were versatile and classic, with the ability to be easily incorporated into your wardrobe. Block colours reigned supreme.
Vionnet is traditionally know for their eveningwear but for Fall the brand ventured, albeit loosely, into daywear. Nude silk shirts and tailored pants had stunning lime green and hot pink stripes running down them, adding a modern twist of classic pieces. Birds of Paradise prints added a further splash of colour to the super pretty collection. Frayed denim kick flares were an unexpected addition but worked well paired with lightweight draped tops. Tulle and shearling also featured.
Francesco Risso's debut collection for Marni was a loudly applauded success. Staying true to the Italian brands heritage and use of strong silhouettes, Risso ventured into the field of textiles with the use of: crochet, shaggy fur and patent materials. Colours were bold but also very wearable for Fall. Stylized floral prints, with a 70's vibe, were mixed with more ditsy floral prints and made for a number of very feminine looks. Metallic brocade dresses with layered bustiers were amongst the highlights int he collection and the embellished evening dresses were standout.
Global travel was one of the key sources of inspiration for the Etro Fall collection. Traditional ethnic paisleys were mixed with Afghan textiles, resulting in a rich display of luxurious prints. Silhouettes were varied: quilted jackets, boxy blazers and patchwork aviator jackets with shearling collars - which will appeal to a broad spectrum of Etro customers. Colours were very 60's and 70's inspired and enhanced the highly decorated patterns. I adored the mixed of silk with brocade and corduroy.
Inspiration came from Venice. Piazza San Marco prints and gondolier black and white stripes reimagined for the modern Alberta Ferretti woman. Rich velvet dresses were printed with traditional florals and created stunning evening gowns for those who want something a little different than the usual long-flowing chiffon gowns (of which there were still plenty). Embroidered floral corsages were also present as were stunning capes.
My Paris Fashion Week review will be posted next week.
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