Balmain
A vivid, exuberant colour palette lit up the runway at Balmain. Yellow and teal, fuchsia and orange, these were my kind of colour combo's. Colour-blocking gave the garments so much more impact. We are used to seeing Olivier Rousteing showcase collections of heavily embroidered garments, however this season it was more about playing with texture: velvet, lace, fringing, fur. I couldn't have asked for more, I loved it.
Chloe
When a runway show takes place that features a Fleetwood Mac soundtrack it would be a pretty good indication that I am about to like what I am going to see. Of course the collection was rather folksy and boho, but would you expect any different? Clare Waight Keller has perfectly moulded the aesthetic of a Chloe girl. Fluid billowing gowns and flirtatious sheer shirts are a standard, but whilst some garments were whimsical there was still an element of power and confidence in the collection.
Valentino
It was the show that stole all the headlines at Paris Fashion Week, thanks to the genius surprise appearance by Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson reprising their Zoolander roles on the runway. But aside from this crowd-pleasing moment, the collection was a dream. Starting with unexpected black and white geo's on oversized knits and full A-line skirts, we also saw beautiful lace dresses in autumnal hues, a metallic feather print, vibrant embroidery and a delightful floral print inspired by Celia Birtwell. Beyond beautiful from start to finish.
Christian Dior
This collection was more liberated and more commercial than anything we have see before from Raf Simons. We saw almost psychedelic animal prints, most notably on bodysuits. The short dresses with cut-outs and mesh collars were my favourite. There was of course more sophisticated pieces, masculine tailored jackets and oversized fur and tweed coats. Vinyl boots and statement sunglasses completed the look.
Stella McCartney
Easy nonchalant fashion is not easy to achieve, but Stella McCartney has the formula down to a T. Beautiful fluid lines were classic and feminine. Asymmetric necklines and oversized separates were also key features. I adored the paper-bag waistbands of the tailored trousers. Subtle metallic printed jacquards and brocade completed the collection.
Louis Vuitton
Taking place in the show space at the Louis Vuitton Foundation, this was a very cool collection with a futuristic edge. Nicholas Ghesquiere has been at Louis Vuitton for 1 year now and he is really putting his stamp on the fashion house. Mini dresses and mini skirts in leather and lace featured heavily, as did ribbed knits with peek-a-boo cutouts. I particularly liked the metallic jellyfish jacquard. I would wear everything from this collection.
Balenciaga
Inspiration for this seasons collection came from: society women, aristocrats and regal women. Alexander Wang referenced Christobal Balenciaga's original clientele as a starting point. Cocoon coats and waist focused tulip skirts were key styles. Fabric was luxurious - tweed with fur trims and leather and metal detailing.
Givenchy
Many of the main styles seen on the runway touched on what Ricardo Tisci has shown in previous collections. The dark gothic nature of the dresses with elements of Victoriana is exactly what the Givenchy customer wants to see. This was a very intense Fall collection with a strong use of velvet, devore, fur and leather. Trims and ruffles were made from silk georgette and ornate beading. Prints were peacock feathers and historical paintings. As for the dramatic jewellery and face jewels, yes they will be offered for sale.
Alexander McQueen
Backstage Sarah Burton explained that she had in mind 'the spirit of the rose' when designing her latest collection for Alexander McQueen. Following a distinctly Victorian mood, the show explored the life of a rose from bud to bloom to decay. Layered organza, leather and distressed lace made this a collection a standout show. The show notes read "the frayed nature of reality and the beauty of imperfection". I couldn't have put it better!
Giambattista Valli
Tunics over slightly flared trousers were a major look of the collection. This style was a more grown up look and will suit more people, taking over from the super short dresses we used to see at Valli. We always see feminine florals at Valli, and this season was no different, the floral print was very commercial. Other materials included: lace, sequins, fur. One of the white lace dresses was so exquisite it actually looked like delicate laser cut. My favourite look was the red fur bodice over a black tank.
Phillippa x
