A/W 20 Fashion Trend - Fringing

Fringing is the gift that keeps on giving - lending itself seamlessly to many a trend or theme, think: Western style, the 70's and the glittering 1920's. It's all there for the taking, and open to interpretation, and that is exactly what we saw for A/W 20. It's a highly interesting trend, which exudes fun regardless of it's styling.

Fashioned into classic 20's 'flapper dresses' was the takeaway thought at Alberta Ferretti, whose delicate fringed dresses wouldn't have looked out of place in the Great Gatsby. Taming the fringed details, Boss and Prada oped for belted dresses adding a hint of structure to the otherwise flyaway fringing.

Celebrating the notion of the free-spirited seventies, Dior created nonchalant dip-dyed lurex fringed dresses. Complete with stacks of jewellery and bandana's, the whole Dior look was a lesson in high-fashion festival dressing.

And now onto my favourite incarnation of this trend: Western. Gabriela Hearst showcased scarf style dresses with fringing trailing from the seams. Alongside this we saw suede outerwear, with layers of fringing transcending from pockets and hems. My idea of heaven!

Fabric is key to the desired interpretation of this trend. For eveningwear look to sparkling silks or beaded fringing, whereas for the 'Western Wonder' feel opt for suede or knit. Choice of fabric will reflect in the overall movement of the garment, but rest assured you'll be swaying along the street wearing this trend.

Key Designers: Jil Sander, Stella McCartney, Bottega Veneta, Christian Dior, Boss, Gabriela Hearst, Roksanda, Burberry, Prada, Alberta Ferretti

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

Pinterest - phillippadesign

Outfit of The Month - July

Ok so it's July, we're still in lockdown (who would have thought it?) but that doesn't mean you still need to be wearing your old trackpants and hoodie. One of the things I have found with being in lockdown, is that 'making an effort' with what I'm wearing really helps to make me feel more positive. With that in mind, for this outfit of the month, I have decided to style-up some easy wearing separates - a classic plain tee and a pair of comfy denim jeans.

Such basic items, can easily be worn around the house, but dressed up for a trip outside. An oatmeal shade blazer has been on my wishlist for quite some time now, and is the perfect layering piece for a summer's evening. These neutral shades are a big trend at present, but are classic enough to last you for several years to come. We all know a blazer effortlessly 'dresses up' an outfit, so this is a great piece to wear over your, otherwise, simple apparel.

Now for accessories. It goes without saying that i'm a huge fan of both Isabel Marant and cowboy boots - so this white leather pair, with cone heel, are a winner for me. What I love the most, is the sunset shade embroidered detail. Such colours remind me somewhat of the colours seen at the Grand Canyon national park and they just add a pop of colour to the overall outfit. Earrings come courtesy of London-based jewellery brand Coup De Coeur. Known for their statement pieces, often in heavy metals, this unisex and non-seasonal label has been worn by the likes of Lupita Nyong'o and model Peyton Knight. Completing the look is a classic black belt from Black & Brown, and a white leather bag with metal hardware from Pinko.

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

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A/W 20 Moodboard - Western Wonder

This is one trend that could not me more 'me' if it tried. Ever since my West Coast USA road trip last year, i've become increasingly more interested in all things 'western wonder' fashion - cue this AW20 trend. If I wasn't already dreaming of living a nomadic lifestyle, in the Californian desert, I am now...

For apparel, this trend delves deep into the use of texture. With fabrications ranging from jacquard to organza, intarsia knits to the all important suede. Silhouettes tend to be loose, but will often be belted for aesthetic purposes. To add yet more texture to the overall trend, we regularly see design features such as fringing and dense embroidery.

Accessories really help to bring the trend to life: from the wide brimmed hats, to cowboy buckle belts and not forgetting the all important neck scarf (usually fashioned as a classic neckerchief). Such items, are a great way to add a nod to the trend into your current wardrobe, without needing to invest too heavily in the more statement apparel pieces.

Colours are quite muted, think desert sunset shades including warm taupes and khaki green. The use of white, also means this trends carries through from Autumn to Summer.

Key Designers: Zimmermann, Etro, Isabel Marant

Phillippa x

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Seasonal Wishlist - Young British Brands

One of the takeaway thoughts from the current global situation, is that the post coronavirus consumer landscape may look somewhat different.  Many shoppers may shun larger retailers in favour of supporting small and local businesses. Of course, this is purely speculative, but with us all putting a focus on 'community' at the moment it is easy to see that this shift is completely plausible. 

With this in mind, I wanted to shine some light on some of my favourite 'young' and 'emerging' British brands - should you wish to take a step in this direction.

1. Hayley Menzies - Cardigan £430

In 2011, designer Hayley Menzies set up a stall in Portobello market selling vintage pieces. From here, Menzies conceptualised her contemporary womenswear brand. Synonymous with a 'hunter-gatherer' style aesthetic, perfect for the modern woman loves to travel and who is a maximalist at heart. Signature pieces include knitted cardigans. Stockists include Liberty and Harrods.

2. Needle & Thread - 'Alaska' Dress £360

Founded in 2013, London based brand, Needle & Thread is synonymous with feminine daywear and evening dresses. With a focus on delicate hand embellishment and romantic prints, in ultra feminine colour palettes, Needle & Thread is the brand we all need to brighten up our wardrobe. A firm favourite of the Duchess of Cambridge, Sarah Jessica Parker and Drew Barrymore.

3. Orwell & Austen - Intarsia 'LOVE' Knit £215

Specialising in knitwear, all Orwell & Austen pieces are made in Nepal. The brand has a focus on creating ethically produced pieces, with a big emphasis on sustainability.

4. Les Girls Les Boys - Bralet £35

Les Girls Les Boys was founded in London by Agent Provocateur founder, Serena Rees. The brands' loungewear and streetwear is gender fluid. They have also recently launched swimwear.

5. Kitty Joseph - Top £135

After graduating from the Royal College of Art in 2011, Kitty Joseph founded her namesake label. Known as being a colour and print focused womenswear brand, and worn by celebrities including Kylie Minogue and Lady Gaga. Garments are made in the UK.

6. Hades - Intarsia 'JOY DIVISION' Knit £220

Founded in 2015, Hades knitwear is handcrafted in Hawick, Scotland. Most notably known for their band name and alphabet intarsia knits. The collections are made from lambswool and are only produced in small quantities. This enables the brand to support local manufacturing partners. Fans include Alexa Chung.

7. Fan Club - 'Lust for Life' T-Shirt £35

Coming in to fruition in 2015, Fan Club clothing is the brainchild of sisters Felicity and Johanna. Born from a love of the 60's and 70's, along with punk music. Best known for super wearable slogan tee's and a very affordable price point.

8. Serena Bute London - Trackpants £345

Having worked in the fashion industry for thirty years, Serena Bute founded her latest brand only a few years ago. The aim of the brand is to create wardrobe staples, which include their iconic wide leg silk joggers. Worn and loved by Rita Ora and Adwoa Aboah.

9. Deborah Lyons - Blazer £540

Having previously worked in New York and Italy, Lyons returned home to London and founded her own brand in 2016. Using her background in tailoring, the brand is known for empowered femininity and high quality tailored pieces.

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

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A/W 20 Colour Trend - Sorbet

Unexpected sorbet shades, made for a welcome appearance on the A/W 20 runway. Not your typical autumnal colour palette, these refreshing pastel hues added an injection of frivolity to proceedings. In previous seasons we have seen ice-cream pastels, often with multiple pastel colours used harmoniously together within one outfit. This has been perhaps in print form or in the guise of layered separates, but for A/W 20 designers were preoccupied with block colours. 

Classic silhouettes are key to nailing this trend. Take cue from Miu Miu, who presented peach melba and parma violet wool coats. These tailored pieces add a simply touch of on-trend elegance to your winter wardrobe. Classic enough to wear year after year, all whilst brightening up a dull winters day. Miu Miu also added a further nod to the trend by use of accessories. Gloves, in contrasting colours, served up a welcome addition of a second pop of colour.

Marc Jacobs and Prabal Gurung both also played heavily with this trend. A lesson in red-carpet worthy evening wear from Gurung, complete with ostrich feathers. With Jacobs it was a focus on creating statement looks with subtle colours - lycra tights and OTT teddy coats. One would expect no less from Jacobs.

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

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A/W 20 Moodboard - Spanish Flair

So I'm sure i'm not the only one currently dreaming of their next holiday? (you know, for when this whole things is over...whenever that may be). Whilst in the process of looking at the A/W 20 catwalks, I noticed a distinct nod to Spanish culture. Well this just further fuelled my desire for my next holiday.

Louis Vuitton payed homage to Spanish Matadors, with their opulent take on the traditional bullfighter uniform, better known as the 'traje de luces'. Traditionally with gold and silver thread, the French fashion house opted for a similar style cropped jacket with heavy embellishment. In a further nod to Spanish culture, the blue and yellow colour palette was reminiscent of the coloured tiles seen at Park Guell in Barcelona.

Over in New York, Tory Burch also opted for a refreshing blue/yellow colour palette. Strapless dresses, with asymmetric hems and trims of shimmery paillettes and feathers, cascaded down the runway. Blue floral prints were delicately hand painted, similar to organic tile patterns found in picturesque Spanish towns. We can also take a look back at the LaDoubleJ SS20 collection, for which the Milanese brand presented zesty lemon prints with ostrich feather hems.

So, where will your next holiday be?

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

Pinterest - phillippadesign

Outfit of The Month - June

If I could wear just one brand, it would be Chloe - cue this top which was the starting point for this 'outfit of the month'. I'm all for a quality slogan tee, and whilst I wouldn't usually opt for heavy logo branding i'll happily make the exception for Chloe. Overall I wanted the feel of this look to be somewhat utilitarian - a classic a-line skirt from Junya Watanabe does the job perfectly. The seatbelt style belt and pockets, add to the military feel. For me, khaki colours are the next best wardrobe staple colours, after black and white. Such colours can seamlessly be incorporated into many an outfit, their neutral tones sitting well next to many other pops of colour. I've thrown in an oversized tie-dye denim jacket for good measure. Tie-dye need not be all rainbow colours, I love the muted dark tones on this one from Palm Angels.

For footwear, so called 'combat boots' are having quite the moment in the spotlight right now. Bottega Veneta have brought the world the coveted lug sole boot (check out Rosie Huntington-Whiteley's outfit posts on Instagram for reference). The aforementioned Bottega boot is black leather, but for this look I wanted something more in keeping with the khaki colour palette. I have opted for a pair of similar lug sole boots from Parisian vegan accessory brand - Rombaut.

For accessories, I knew I wanted to further toughen up this outfit with some statement accessories. First stop was a signature chain bracelet from Alyx. If Alyx is not on your fashion radar yet, then it really ought to be. Founded in 2015 by Matthew Williams (Lady Gaga's former creative director and Kanye West collaborator), Alyx is fast becoming one of the most coveted brands, known for luxury pieces but with a streetwear affinity. Most notably, Williams recently worked for Kim Jones (Dior men) to redesign the brands' hardware. If you are on the lookout for future classic jewellery, it's worth investing now in their signature chain jewellery.

Completing the look, is a pair of top bar metal sunglasses from Givenchy, with smoke lens and acetate tips. In addition to this, I've added a practical cross-body bag, in neutral colours, from Stella McCartney.

What is your favourite piece in this outfit?

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

Pinterest - phillippadesign

A/W 20 Print Moodboard - Toile De Jouy

Originating in a town outside of Paris in the 18th Century, Toile De Jouy is one of the most instantly recognisable prints within the realm of textiles. Varying ever so slightly in the scene, in which it depicts, it is classic in it's scale and colour (typically blue, red or black). It is especially delicate, it's hand-drawn motifs featuring minute detail. 

Traditionally such prints will portray pastoral scenes, think picnics in a park or farming, but designers of today are reinventing the classic Toile De Jouy with a quirky modern spin. This could be in the form of featuring modern society or the designers hometown, but fashioned in the Toile De Jouy style of handwriting.

On the runway for A/W 20, we saw Toile De Jouy, most noticeably, crop up at both Sies Marjan and Moschino. However this heritage print has been slowly bubbling under the surface for a couple of seasons now, recently also spotted at Christian Dior and Chloe.

Due to the nature of the print, the overall appeal is very soft and romantic. Whilst it may be a print which covers a full surface, it's muted colouring means it is not overbearing. With this is mind, it is likely to have longevity in your wardrobe.

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

Pinterest - phillippadesign

Shop The Edit - Rainbow

You will have undoubtedly noticed, that the humble rainbow motif has been cropping up in windows all across the country. As the world looks to survive in these unprecedented times, the symbol of the rainbow is being used to offer hope and brighter times ahead - signifying the sun emerging from behind grey clouds. 

Coming at this from a fashion perspective, we tend not to see actual rainbow motifs on the runway. This standalone motif lends itself more to graphic tee's, whereas on the runway designers look at it from the angle of using the seven rainbow colours. Having said this, one of my all time favourite runway looks came from the Matthew Williamson Spring 05 collection (seen below in my edit) - I am forever on the quest to hunt down this aforementioned dress!

This rainbow concept is nothing new, if you look back to archive fashion images we regularly see full head-to-toe rainbow looks. There is something free-spirited and bohemian about the use of these colours, whereas in today's society it is also representative of equality. It also happen to work exceptionally well for editorial images, especially against a backdrop of rainbow coloured street art.

In the past couple of seasons, we have seen rainbow hues from designers: Christian Siriano, Gabriela Hearst, Halpern, Kitty Joseph, Attico, Moncler x Richard Quinn and Needle and Thread - proving that the use of this colour palette is more than just a fleeting trend.

If you are looking in incorporate some rainbow summer cheer into your wardrobe, I have put together a round-up of some of my favourite premium pieces...

1. Shirt Dress by All Things Mochi £275

2. Dress by Needle & Thread £285

3. Jacket by Etre Cecile £320

4. Boots by Marco De Vincenzo £1180

5. Bag  by By Far £455

6. Earrings by Rosie Fortescue £100

7. Swimsuit by Alberta Ferretti £245

8. Top by Kitty Joseph £135

9. Dress by Michael Kors £311

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

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A/W 20 Fashion Trend - Exaggerated Sleeves

'Oh hello' was my first thought when I saw this trend pop up on the runway during fashion month.  Designers did not come to play when they adopted this trend for their A/W 20 collections. It's an unashamedly 'in your face' sleeve which guarantee's a talking point with your outfit. 

Now I think we've all experienced a few tricky moments with oversized sleeves. You know the kind i'm talking about...you buy a gorgeous new dress or blouse, with billowing sleeves, only to find you simply cannot war any outerwear over it. Its a practical problem, but who ever said fashion had to be practical?

This so called trend is, like most trends, is nothing new. I mean, Queen Elizabeth the first was rocking an oversized sleeve way back in the 16th century. There's a huge aspect of this trend which plays into the concept of power dressing, and if you look back to our historical figures, oversized sleeves emphasised power and social status. Fast-forward to the 1980's and voluminous sleeves were back once again, think Joan Collins in Dynasty.

Proportionally, an exaggerated sleeves hides a multitude of sins. Covering up any insecurities one may have with showing their upper arms, whilst at the same time drawing attention to your smaller waist.

Key Designers: Fendi, Emilia Wickstead, Victoria Beckham, Jil Sander, Alexander McQueen, Loewe, Miu Miu, Marco de Vincenzo, Dries Van Noten

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

Pinterest - phillippadesign

A/W 20 Colour Trend - Fuchsia

Being my longtime favourite colour, I was thrilled to see fuchsia making countless appearances on the runway during the A/W 20 presentations. 

Kicking things off in style, in New York Tom Ford sent a model down the runway in a floor sweeping hot pink sequinned skirt teamed with a classic knit and matching earrings. It was the unexpected, modern ensemble I never knew I needed. A masterclass in modern evening wear. 

It was however in London, where this trend really started to gain momentum. Michael Halpern, at his namesake brand Halpern, delivered billowing silk gowns in daring hot pink - a real red carpet moment waiting to happen! Richard Quinn opted for regal-esque satin gowns, whilst the offering from Roland Mouret was giving me major throwbacks to Princess Diana's infamous 'revenge dress' - perhaps something to do with that that off-the-shoulder neckline.

This trend works particularly well on luxe fabrics - velvet, silk, satin

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

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A/W 20 Fashion Trend - Latex

The most risque of fabrics, latex, is the most talked about fabric for A/W 20. This high-shine, glossy, material was a recurring theme on the runway this season and was championed by some of the biggest luxury brands. 

Latex is widely already worn by female popstars for performance wear - think Beyonce, J Lo and Miley Cyrus and is an aesthetic also most suited to the world of S&M. The dangerously tight material, which requires a small army to help one get into said latex garment, is not often seen in such a mainstream way on the runway. Anthony Vaccarello (at Saint Laurent) purposely chose the material because he wanted to incorporate "something cheap" into the collection to break away from conventional rules of fashion...his words not mine. For the Balmain A/W 20 collection, Olivier Rousteing teamed up with famed London-based latex brand, Atsuko Kudo. Both Balmain and Atsuko Kudo are firm favourites with the Kardashian clan, so I can only imagine this collaboration must have answered all their high-fashion latex dreams.

Fashioned, largely, into otherwise wearable silhouettes latex came in a variety of muted colours with the occasional pop of daring deep red/purple. For example, a latex polo neck at Saint Laurent and latex bodysuit at Sally Lapointe. Forming a second-skin on the body, the most dramatic looks were head-to-toe latex inclusive of gloves and footwear. 

Key Designers - Saint Laurent, Balmain, Sally Lapointe, David Koma, Richard Quinn

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

Pinterest - phillippadesign

Sustainable Fashion - Discussion and Brands To Know

'Sustainability' is undoubtedly one of the most used buzz words of 2020. Every industry has become more consciously aware of their carbon footprint, and what they can do to be more sustainable. Whether they want to or not, the issue of sustainability has been put firmly on the agenda of many a company and industry sector - with those who are not stepping up being publicly 'called out'. Whilst sustainability is being explored by fashion retailers, the demand for fashion is at an all time high (consumption is up by 10% since 2012) - with cheap fast-fashion becoming more popular than ever thanks in part to the rise of social media and the desire for Instagram approval and likes. Due in part to it's innovation, sustainable fashion comes at a higher price point, with consumers often unwilling to pay a premium due to lack of awareness or lack of care.

The 60 - 75 million apparel workers employed globally, are also amongst the lowest paid in the world. With many having to work in unsafe conditions, whilst also being subject to discrimination.

At present, millennials are most likely to throw out clothing for the following reasons: tired of wearing them, no longer on trend, or they are more than a few seasons old. In relation to cheap fast fashion, the wearer is unable to keep the clothes for several years because the quality of the garments simply does not allow for it. Very often, poorly stitched polyester items have a very short lifespan which results in them being discarded sooner rather than later.

In short, the fashion industry is one of the largest polluting industries in the world. 

Statistics

1. Three-fifths of all clothing ends up in landfill or incinerators within just one year of being produced.
2. 80 billion clothing items thrown out every year.

3. The fashion industry's greenhouse gas emissions equate to more than all international shipping and flights combined.

4. Washing clothes releases half a million tonnes of microfibres into the ocean each year, which is the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles.

One of the takeaway thoughts from the current Covid-19 pandemic, is that consumers will re-evaluate their spending. With many consumers being furloughed, or all together out of work, we will be watching our spending more closely then ever before. As a result, there is a hope that we will see a retail shift and the consumer will side step away from cheaper fast fashion and instead place a greater importance on quality and longevity of the product they purchase.  Giorgio Armani wrote an open letter to Women's Wear Daily, in which he commented "A careful and intelligent slowdown is the only way out...that will make the final customers perceive its true importance and value"
With this, will also come a greater consumer desire for transparency - with the want to know where our garments come from.

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Fashion Brands With Sustainable Initiatives

For those of you looking to make more eco-conscious decisions when it comes to fashion in 2020, here I am profiling a few of my favourite brands with sustainable initiatives:

Reformation - 75% of their collections are made with plant-based natural fibres which are rapidly renewable and/or fibres which are recycled. Chosen fabrics: Tencel (regenerated cellulose fibre), linen, recycled cotton, recycled cashmere. Furthermore, 15% of their collections are made from 'deadstock' fabrics, saved from landfill.

Stella McCartney - Sustainability is at the core of the brand. Famed for being a 'vegetarian' brand, no leather is used. All other materials are sourced ethically, with many recycled fibres being used. The brand also places a great emphasis on 'social sustainability', meaning the entire supply chain is looked at in great detail to ensure local artisans are protected and factories have carefully carried out audits. Even at store level, all wood used is 'Forest Stewardship Council' certified, meaning it comes from sustainably managed forests. All stores and offices are also powered by wind energy, supplied by Ecotricity. McCartney herself, was last year named Sustainability Advisor with LVMH.
Below, Stella McCartney ad campaign in collaboration with Extinction Rebellion.

Patagonia - Another big name to place a huge emphasis on both environmental responsibility and social sustainability, with a goal to be carbon neutral by 2025. At present, 72% of the line is made using recycled materials (including cashmere, down, wool, cotton and nylon) and 76% of the line is Fair Trade certified. Their supply chain promotes fair labor practices and safe working conditions.

Maggie Marilyn - Manufactured locally in New Zealand, in turn cutting down emissions in the supply chain. 50% of the collections are made from repurposed or recycled materials. Packaging produced by 'The Better Packaging Company', which has the highest certified standard for compostability. On a side note: Maggie Marilyn was the first brand to be picked up by Net-A-Porter in their first season.

Mother of Pearl - The 'No Frills' collection is a fully sustainable core line, with the sustainable attributes of each garment listed on their e-commerce site. The full supply chain was restructured in accordance with ethical practices, this filters down to the plastic-bottle free London head office. There is also a strong emphasis on educating the consumer. Creative Director, Amy Powney, has also recently launched #FASHIONOURFUTURE - a community pledging to change the way we consume to help stop climate change.

Needle & Thread - Sustainable capsule collection with Jasmine Hemsley. Collection made with recycled materials, including sequins made with post-consumer waste.

AMUR - Using sustainably sourced natural and reclaimed materials, the collections are not trend-driven allowing for greater longevity. Fibres including hemp and linen are preferred, which require little water and fertilizer to grow. AMUR also works with artisans to produce the hardware for their garments, partnering with the nonprofit fair-trade organisation 'Nest'.

House of Sunny - East London based brand House of Sunny, was founded in 2011. Going against the mainstream six collections per year, the brand creates only two collections each year. This allows the team to spend more time making informed choices when it comes to sourcing sustainable materials, with an emphasis on quality and fit.

H&M - As one of the biggest fashion retailers, in the world, H&M now offers full disclosure of the factories used to produce each garment. By doing so, such brands can be held accountable for their ethical and social responsibilities. H&M also have a 'Conscious' collection, which uses a higher percentage of sustainably sourced materials.

If you know of any great sustainable brands, or brands with sustainable initiatives, please do let me know.

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

Pinterest - phillippadesign

A/W 20 Print Trend - Checkmate!

Whilst we didn't see a huge amount of print on the runway, trend speaking that is, there was one print that did crop up countless times - Check/Plaid. Arguably one of the most classic prints, which has been used by designers for years, it came in many guises for A/W 20.

Gucci took the traditional route, with floor-sweeping tartan skirts in traditional colours. Continuing to play with tartan, Monse and Rokh both showcased modern daywear by incorporating spliced tartan prints together. I love how this approach gave the humble tartan print a new lease of life for 2020.

Over in London, Riccardo Tisci's latest collection for Burberry saw models take to the runway in deconstructed check shirting. This relaxed daywear was one of the most wearable outings for this trend. Large-scale 'picnic blanket' checks were fashioned into wool dresses at Dries Van Noten, vintage Victoriana dresses were seen at Luisa Beccaria and statement multi-coloured checked outerwear took centre stage at Shrimps.

Even for those who tend to steer clear of print, plaid is undoubtedly one of the easiest ways to adapt print into your wardrobe. It can easily be incorporated and into your current wardrobe and whilst it may be 'on trend' for this season, it never really goes out of style.

Phillippa x

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Twitter - @phillippa22

Fashion Brands Helping With The Fight Against Covid-19

These are unprecedented times for the global economy, but as I work in fashion I wanted to shine the spotlight on this particular sector. The Bangladeshi and Garment Exporters Association estimates that more than 1 million Bangladeshi garment workers have gone unpaid following the cancellation of over £2.4billon work of orders from the likes of Matalan and Primark, amongst others. This equated to a staggering 864million units of clothing.

This is an extremely challenging times for all retailers, with store closures and disruption to the global supply chain hitting fashion brands hard. I wanted to take a look at how fashion brands are reacting to this crisis, albeit still in it's early stages.

With the prevalence of social media during this pandemic, fashion retailers who have received heavy negative criticism for their handling of the current situation (premature job cuts, withholding payments from suppliers, trying to keep bricks and mortar stores open against government advise) will most likely suffer in the long run - as post-coronavirus consumers will remember those who did and didn't look after their staff and suppliers. We all understand the natural instinct to 'fight for survival' but when this comes at a cost to the wider supply chain, you have to question the company's basic moral and ethical principles.

New Look CEO, Nigel Oddy, announced that with immediate effect on 3rd April all Spring/Summer orders were cancelled. Any goods still in production, and/or not yet loaded onto a vessel were cancelled and would not be paid for. Any outstanding payments for goods already in transit would be delayed indefinitely. 
Sport Directs' owner Mike Ashley vowed to defy government orders to close all 'non-essential' shops by stating he intended to keep all Sports Direct shops open. As you can imagine, this decision went down like a led balloon with consumers and Ashley bowed to pressure and shut his stores.
Arcadia boss Philip Green angered the public with his plea for taxpayers to bail out his rapidly declining fashion empire...but we all remember the BHS pension debacle and how he dodges taxes by residing in Monaco.

But now time to shine a light on those brands who, rightly so, deserve positive recognition. These brands have stepped up to the mark, all in their own way to support the relief effort/helping frontline workers:

The Good Guys

Christian Siriano - When New York Governor Andrew Cuomo sent out a plea for clothing designers and manufactures to make masks, Christian Siriano stepped up to the mark. Initially his team were working from home, but due to limited resources could only make 50 masks per day. Siriano reached out to Governor Cuomo to seek permission to re-open his atelier as an 'essential' business in order to increase production. Cuomo agreed and now Siriano has distributed 1000's of FDA approved masks to state hospitals in the New York area. Christian Siriano I salute you!

Reformation - The LA based brand has joined forces with The City of Los Angeles and Mayor Eric Garcetti on the 'LA Protects' initiative. It aims to organise local manufacturers to make 5 million non-medical grade masks.

Burberry - The British heritage brand has repurposed it's Castleford factory and is now making non-surgical gowns and masks for NHS patients. Burberry is also funding research into a vaccine being developed at the University of Oxford.

Gucci - Provided 1.1million surgical masks and 55,000 medical overalls. Given the World Health Organisation control of it's social media channels to increase outreach of public service information.

H&M - $500,000 donation made to the Covid-19 Solidarity Response Fund. In addition, H&M are utilising it's supply chain to produce PPE.

Pyer Moss - Formed a network called 'Your Friends in New York' and set aside $50,000 to obtain masks and medical supplies. Also providing financial aid to small minority and women-led businesses.

Georgia Hardinge - 50% of profits from the brand's sustainable 'Dazed' dresses will be donated to Age UK, for a 2 month period.

Ralph Lauren - Donated $10m to help in the fight against Covid-19 and is producing 250,000 masks and 25,000 gowns. Also donated an undisclosed amount to the CFDA/Vogue fashion fund to help designers hit by the current economic situation.

Rails - The LA based brand is halting production of it's current collection, in order to produce masks which can be distributed to local communities. Also donating a percentage of profits to the No 'Kid Hungry' campaign.

Cos - Partnered with Baby2Baby to donate 2.5million essential items to the most vulnerable families.

Mango - Donated 2million masks.

Tods - Donated £5million to help the families of those who have lost loved ones to Covid-19.

Inditex Group - 13 of it's factories in Spain are making medical gowns and masks.

Fashion Institute of Technology - The New York college has launched 'Sew4Lives' and is encouraging students to make medical grade masks for health workers and non-medical masks for other employee's of other essential businesses.

Fabletics - Donating $5 from the sale of each items to WHO's COVID-19 Solidarity Response Fund.

Fast Retailing - The owners of Uniqlo and J Brand, donated over 10million face masks to a number of countries and states. This included 1million being distributed in New York state and 1 million in Japan.

Revolve - Using it's global network of influencers to acquire 1million masks.

Marks and Spencer - Pledged to donate thousands of care packages to coronavirus patients admitted to the new Nightingale hospital in London. Individual store branches are donating surplus food to local food banks.

Nordstrom - Partnered with Kass Tailoring to provide Providence Health with 100,000 masks.

Prada - Financing the intensive care units of three new hospitals in Milan. Producing 80,000 medical overalls and 110,000 masks.

Kering - Donated to the relief effort buy importing 3million masks for healthcare workers in France.

Calzedonia Group - The Italian conglomerate has committed to making 10,000 masks a day.

Kate Spade - Pledged $100,000 to Crisis Text Line, an organisation providing counselling for doctors and nurses.

Net-A-Porter - Volunteered vans from it's delivery fleet to the charity Age UK, to delivery essentail supplies to those in need.

Armani - All of Armani's Italian factories are now making single-use medical overalls.

Chanel - Producing protective face masks for use across France.

Versace - A personal donation of 200,00Euro's to ICU at San Raffaele Hospital in Milan, and a 400,000Euro donation from the brand itself. In February, the fashion house donated a substantial sum to the Chinese Red Cross.

Michael Kors - $2million donation spilt between hospitals and charities.

Havaianas - The Brazilian brand is producing PPE, as well as distributing food and hygiene products to the most vulnerable communities.

L.L.Beans - The American outerwear brand is manufacturing 10,000 masks daily.

Jimmy Choo - Pledged £500,000, including £250,000 to the NHS.

Alejandra Alonso Rojas - Donating 30% of all sales, until 30th May, to God's Love Will Deliver and No Kids Hungry - two charities that provide meals for those in need.

Sandro - Producing 10,000 non-medical masks, made from excess fabric. Created a charity t-shirt for sale online, with 100% of proceeds going to the Red Cross.

Nanushka - The Hungarian brand is distributing 12,000 medical grade masks which it secured from a Chinese supplier. It's atelier will also produce 2,000 masks for the general public.

Saks Fifth Avenue - Pledged $600,000 to various organisations that support Covid-19 relief efforts.

AG - The denim brand is donating $1million to the LA County Response Fund.

Baukjen - Offering 40% off for all key workers

Mayhoola - The parent company of Valentino and Balmain will donate 1million Euro's the the Sacco Hospital in Milan.

Paige - The LA-based denim brand are donating 20% of all sales to 'St. Vincent Meals on Wheels'.

Bulgari - Producing 100,000 hand sanitizer bottles.

La Perla - Donated 10,000 masks to the Muncipality of Bologna.

Boden - Providing nightwear and clothing, via the Helpforce charity, to NHS staff who can't return home at present.

Geox - The presidents of the brand have donated 1million Euro's to health services in the Veneto region of Italy.

Anine Bing - Producing 10,000 masks.

Moncler - The brand is donating 10million Euro's to support a project in Lombardy, for the construction of a hospital with over 400 intensive care units

Brooks Brothers - The brands' New York, Massachusetts and North Carolina factories are now making 150,000 medical gowns and masks.

LVMH - Transformed its perfume factories into manufacturing centre's for hand sanitiser. Also supplying France with 40million masks.

Dior - Re-opened one of its studios, and is now producing masks.

Kurt Geiger - Donating 55 x £100 gift cards to every hospital in the UK and Ireland where Kurt Geiger have stores. In addition NHS employees will receive 50% discount for a full year, once stores reopen.

By Rotation - The rental service is giving £50 store credit to all NHS workers to use once the pandemic is over.

Crocs - Donating a free pair of Crocs to healthcare workers in the USA

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

Pinterest - phillippadesign

A/W 20 Fashion Colour Trend - Chartreuse

Chartreuse is one of those colours currently enjoying it's 'moment' in the spotlight. In late 2019 online creative marketplace, Etsy, handpicked Chartreuse as it's colour of the year 2020 - predicting a spike in sales of goods made in the colour. Etsy, is in large part, known for interiors but clearly this colour is crossing over into the fashion frontier. 

It's an acidic colour, reminiscent of colours seen in nature, perhaps why it works so well in the home. Helping to create an inviting living space which is also refreshing. In terms of fashion, it offers a welcome move on from the highly over-commercialised 'neon' trend which was prevalent the past couple of years. It's still bold, and the wearer still needs to exude natural confidence, but it doesn't have the same connotations as neon. With neon, we think streetwear and festival attire, but with chartreuse it will sit easier in your wardrobe. Whilst on the runway it was seen in full head-to-toe looks, this need not be the case for your own styling. A chartreuse knit could, for example, be styled with more muted tailored pieces.

Key Designers - Erdem, Bottega Veneta, Sally Lapointe

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

Pinterest - phillippadesign

Styling Edit - Needle & Thread

I'm back again with a new season styling edit, one of my favourite types of content to put together for my blog. I thought that for this edit, I would focus on styling select pieces from my favourite contemporary British brand - Needle & Thread. Founded in 2013, Needle & Thread is synonymous with feminine daywear and evening dresses. With a focus on delicate hand embellishment and romantic prints, in ultra feminine colour palettes, Needle & Thread is the brand we all need to brighten up our wardrobe.

I have selected four of my favourite pieces, currently available online, and my aim is to show you how you can style these pieces in various different ways - perfect for a variety of occasions.

1
FLORAL DIAMOND RUFFLE DRESS

This dress is my idea of the 'perfect' dress. A super wearable piece that can be easily be styled for day and evening and requires little or no accessories. For this look, I styled in my preferred way - with a pair of western boots from Chloe and a leather jacket from LOT LTHR. I would wear this outfit to the office, on holiday and to a festival - versatility is a must in my wardrobe.

2 

FLORAL DIAMOND CHIFFON GOWN

I'm picturing holiday's in the south of France, venturing out down quaint cobbled streets in search of the perfect restaurant for dinner. *Let's just pause for a sweet moment to imagine that picturesque scene*. For this outfit, I wanted to create an effortlessly easy to wear holiday look. The loose silhouette makes the 'Floral Diamond Chiffon Gown' ideal for a hotter climate, but the gown can be also be belted at the waist if you so desire. Styled with classic summer accessories: a sun hat, straw bag from Jacquemus and oversized 70s-inspired sunnies from Chloe.

3

KALPTARU BODICE

For this look, I wanted to show how you can style down a more 'evening-wear' piece and make it appropriate for day. For those of you confident enough to rock a crop top this embellished bodice, part of the Needle & Thread X Jasmine Hemsley collection, features delicate embroidery in vivid shades of aqua and cobalt. The colouring lends itself perfectly to being styled with jeans - the ultimate dress down wardrobe staple. The cornflower blue blazer, from Pinko, is the perfect coverup offering a sense of formality to the look. Shoes come courtesy of Korean brand Yuul Yie - the architectural-esqe heel was simply too dreamy to resist!

4

ROSE BUD STRIPE MINI DRESS

Ok so for something unashamedly feminine and flattering, look no further than the 'Rose Bud Stripe Mini Dress'. The gorgeous champagne tulle and rose gold sequins make this dress the most beautiful occasion wear piece. Keeping the look ultra-feminine I have kept accessories tonal. Blush colours, in sumptuous satin, look divine sitting alongside the dress.

Needle & Thread - https://www.needleandthread.com/

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

Pinterest - phillippadesign

A/W 20 Colour Trend - Saturated Red

This rich hue has been seen an countless catwalks this season. From Michael Kors and Monse in New York, to Saint Laurent and Balenciaga in Paris - this top choice of colour provided countless show-stopping runway moments. Sequinned evening dresses were seen at Christopher Kane, Marc Jacobs and Bottega Veneta, where Daniel Lee continues to impress with his offerings for the Milanese brand. Tailoring was also an important product category, with striking red power suits seen at McQueen, Burberry and Altuzarra. It looks like workwear will be getting lively next season.  For great layering pieces, look to Iceberg and Roksanda for casual pullover knits. There simply will be no getting away from this sensual yet strong colour for A/W 20.

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

Pinterest - phillippadesign

Felt Craft Idea's

It's been a short while since I posted on my blog...perhaps a classic case of 'creative burnout' as a result of blogging for 10 years. An entire decade - how did that happen? But as the world is a slightly different place right now, I thought 'no time like the present' to get back to it. Let's be honest, most of us have a lot of extra time on our hands at the moment!

It seems that right about now, we are all looking to be a bit more resourceful with how we spend our time and setting our mind to 'creative mode'. So whilst I usually blog about fashion trends and analyse runway collections, I thought now would be the time to share some of my other creative projects with you. 

One of my main creative hobbies is making felt decorations. I find it unbelievably relaxing to set my mind to a creative task and come up with ideas for different decorations. Predominantly using felt, I then add embroidery with coloured thread and beads. Below are some of my own favourite creations:

Phillippa x

Pinterest - phillippadesign

Twitter - @phillippa22

WFH / Lockdown Music Playlist

I frequently used to update my blog with playlists of music I was 'currently listening to', but i've not done this for some time now. Well now we are all in lockdown, with lack of regular human interaction, music can be a bit of a 'saving grace'. I think we all turn to music to lift our mood and reflect how we are feeling at any given moment. I've put together a new list of the artists / albums I have been listening to...

The National - Albums: High Violet, Trouble Will Find Me, I Am Easy To Find

Mating Ritual - Album: Hot Content

Slowdive - Album: Slowdive

Future Islands - Albums: Singles, The Far Field

Luke Combs - Album: This One's for You

Hurts - Albums: Happiness, Exile, Surrender, Desire

Eddie Vedder - Album: Into The Wild

The Killers - Album: Battle Born

Foals - Album: What Went Down

Oasis - Albums: Heathen Chemistry, (What's The Story) Morning Glory?

Coldplay - Albums: A Head Full of Dreams, X&Y, Ghost Stories, Mylo Xyloto, Vida La Vida

Richard Ashcroft - Album: These People

Twin Shadow - Albums: Caer, Eclipse

Fleetwood Mac - Albums: Tango in the Night, Rumours

Haim - Albums: Something To Tell You, Days Are Gone

Taylor Swift - Albums: Lover, Reputation, 1989, Red, Fearless, Speak Now

Anna Of The North - Album: Lovers

M83 - Album: Saturdays = Youth

Christine and the Queens - Album: Chris

Billie Eilish - Album: When We All Fall Asleep, Where Do We Go?

Blondie - Album: Best of Blondie

Phillippa x

Pinterest - phillippadesign

Twitter - @phillippa22

Outfit of The Month - February

A pop of colour to take away those winter blues, is exactly what I had in mind when it came to styling this outfit. I knew that I wanted to build the look around a piece from one of my current favourite brands, Colville. The brand was the brainchild of the formidable former British Vogue fashion Director, Lucinda Chambers, alongside Marni designers Molly Molloy and Kristin Forss - hence the exquisite use of colour! I was looking to create a super wearable outfit, with an extra added level of interest and I think this Colville knit offers the perfect antidote to dull daytime dressing. I have teamed the top with a classic pair of light-washed, low-rise, jeans from LA based sustainable brand Reformation. For outerwear I opted for a beautifully cut coat from Roksanda, the stone grey lending itself perfectly to the light-washed denim. Completing the look are an iconic pair of mules from Proenza Schouler and a millennial pink tote bag, also from Proenza. Overall, this look would be ideal for me to wear to the office - the heels elevating the look, whilst bold geometric print ensuring the look remains modern and fun.

Phillippa x