Matty Bovan
Ok so if you've not heard of Matty Bovan you really need to get him on your fashion radar. Winner of the LVMH Graduate prize in 2015 and nominated for the British Emerging Womenswear Talent at the 2017 Fashion Awards, Central Saint Martins alumni Matty Bovan is fast becoming one of the most exciting British designers of the past few years. With a studio based in York, all of his collections are designed and created in the north of England. For his latest collection, Bovan began by looking at the British standards of smart-lady dressing - cue the tweed fabrics. From here the collection developed into a wonderful array of practical daywear separates (jodphurs), frayed tweed outerwear and an impressive range of screen-printed and knitted evening gowns. Many have commented that Bovan's work is reminiscent of Vivienne Westwood and a young Alexander McQueen, and I couldn't agree more. I adore the fact that Bovan puts a huge emphasis on creativity and hand produced designs, favouring small local production and experimenting with different textures. I can't wait to see this collection feature in editorials and on the red carpet. Fans already include Georgia May Jagger and Noomi Rapace.
Peter Pilotto
I have adored Peter Pilotto for many years now, and this collection has to be one of my favourite's from the brand. Known for their use of colour and print, the design duo behind the brand were conscious to create a collection that would work well in a real-life setting, as opposed to creating show-stopping runway pieces. The colour palette had a Middle Eastern feel to it, with divine shades of: mustard, indigo and red. Quilted coats tapped into the puffer jacket trend, but these came in silk fabrics with oversized pockets. Knitted dressed were amongst my favourite pieces, patched together in contrasting coloured stripes with sequin inlays. For me though, the prints were what captivated me the most. Floor length dresses, some of which has plunging v-necklines and handkerchief hems, were printed with intricate motifs not to dis-similar to those you would expect to find on an antique rug. I loved that the printed faded in and out on the silhouette creating an almost 70's vintage feel. This collection got a HUGE yes from me...I need one of everything for Autumn!
Mary Katrantzou
Katrantzou's latest collection was titled 'Interior Lives' and the designer was looking at the beginnings of modernism for inspiration. The first few looks in the collection focused on the Bauhaus movement and consisted of patchwork dresses featuring a multitude of different textured fabric and embroideries. Further along the collection we saw a number of tile print motifs and exquisite rich arts and crafts tapestries which were on: corsets, dresses and quilted leather trimmed coats. Amongst some of the most extraordinary pieces were the pointillist inspired knits, which had thousands of glass beads embellished onto them, which were quite simply stunning. To close the collection, Katrantzou referenced her very first collection by showing lampshade inspired structured corsets and jackets in metallic embossed jacquard.
Christopher Kane
There has long been sexual undercurrents in Christopher Kane's collections and this season was no different. The starting point was the famed 1972 published book The Joy of Sex. The graphic illustrations, as seen in the book, were printed on 3 of the dresses in this collection. Lace and leather featured heavily throughout the show, but many of the silhouettes were surprisingly wearable. Colours were largely red and black, with a few nude shades thrown into the mix as well. One of my favourite design elements, was the use of zips which created off-the-shoulder detailing and daring splits on skirts.
J.W.Anderson
Utilitywear was present throughout Anderson's latest offering, with oversized loose silhouettes in khaki colours paired with low slung belts. Handkerchief hems on skirts were also a key feature, complete with coloured striped piping. These colours complimented the paisley printed frilly shirts and statement coloured accessories, which came with lace details. Anderson has mastered his aesthetic exceptionally well, creating contemporary pieces which work well head-to-toe but also as wearable everyday separates. Models wore Converse from the designers latest collaboration with the footwear brand. They added comfort and practicality to the collection.
Phillippa x
Twitter - @Phillippa22
Instagram - phillippa22
Pinterest - phillippadesign
No comments:
Post a Comment