Now this is more like it....more colour and print than you could possibly imagine! With a background in textiles / surface design you can see why I look forward to MFW so much. Whilst I wouldn't necessarily wear many of the collections, as they don't reflect my personal style, from a design perspective they are music to my ears. Versace fully stole he show this season...but more on that in a minute. Here are my top 5 collections form Milan...
Marni
WOW...was quite simply my first reaction as I clicked through each look in the collection. Marni silhouettes are often oversized and when printed with inky florals I was left in awe. Francesco Risso explained that these florals were 'English gardens, as seen though the eyes of Tim Burton'...so cue the fantasy prints in cartoon-like colours. The oversized proportions reference historical garments, which you would find in the 20's and 50's. Full duchesse skirts were seen throughout and came both printed and in block colours of luxurious satin. Corset tops added intrigue to the collection and were an awkwardly sexy addition to the collection. Key features - fur bags and frayed hems.
Versace
The show that got everyone talking...in a pretty MAJOR way. 2017 marks a poignant year for the Italian fashion brand, it marks the 20th anniversary since the infamous murder of Gianni Versace in Miami. So how did Donatella choose to mark this milestone?...with a 90's inspired print fest that's how! Pulling prints directly from the Versace archives of the early 90's, Donatella delivered a knockout collection of show-stopping looks one after the other. Shells, starfish, gold Baroque motifs, leopard print, butterflies, Warhol prints - I mean talk about impact. Growing up in the 90's I remember these prints fondly. It also wouldn't be classic Versace without embellishment, silk scarves and killer accessories. But there is one thing that stole the show more than anything else - the return of the most iconic 90's supermodels: Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Helena Christensen and Cindy Crawford who all wore gold chainmail dresses.
Gucci
This offering was everything that we have come to know and love from an Alessandro Michele Gucci collection. The glam rock 70's vibes were present in the form of the emphasis on shoulders, sequinned fabrics and appliqued musical notes - all inspired by Elton John's archive stage outfits. Of course the 'new Gucci' is not to everyone's taste, its OTT and garish, but you simply can't deny the fact that Gucci are major power players in the world of fashion at the moment with everyone desperate to get their hands on piece of the action. For that Michele has to be applauded for his undeniable ability to create a triumphant collection season after season.
Bottega Veneta
Firstly, the colour palette as presented by Tomas Maier at the SS18 presentation was sublime. Beautiful dusty shades of lavender, blue and taupe were seen on the runway but for me it was the choice of fabric which really brought the colours to life. Suede and silk being the two key fabrics, both of which were seen, at times, strewn with eyelets and paillettes. Another key theme in the collection was the use of fringing, complete with micro beads - the frocks in question were simple in their cut and tailoring. This was a collection that was made to be wearable...and practical. Even the evening gowns were straightforward in their cut. Hints of python skin were also seen.
Prada
Miuccia Prada was expressing her thoughts on women, since the election of Donald Trump, in her latest collection. She wanted to create a 'militant woman' - a collection about power. We saw lots of layering and varying silhouettes all on a backdrop of a dramatic dark colour palette. Prints were taken from manga artists, and interestingly were screen-printed onto the fabric over creases to allow for a rough-and-ready feel. Such detailed and illustrated prints were juxtaposed with graphic spots and zebra patterns. Super slimline cateye sunglasses were a key part of the collection - one accessories trend which is going from strength to strength.
My Paris Fashion Week review will follow soon...
Phillippa x
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