J.W.Anderson
For me, this show was my personal highlight of LFW. With architectural silhouettes, bold colour, quilting, a cloud motif used on a skirt and inventive fabric manipulation - each look from this show had me captivated. It very much reminded me of Pierre Cardin. This show also featured by favourite accessories seen so far on the A/W16 runway - the 'Pierce' bag and sculptural shoes.
Burberry
Christopher Bailey described his inspiration behind this collection - 70's glam rock, military tailoring and mix media bohemia. 70's wallpaper prints were given a makeover and seen on sequined mini dresses. Signature black and khaki separates were paired with jacquard tops. Coats came in classic wool with military details, plaid, shearling, fur and python. Never anything other than perfect, Burberry knows what consumers want...I'll take one of everything please!
Christopher Kane
I adore seeing what Christopher Kane will serve up at LFW, each season different to the last and full of imagination. More commercial pieces, such as sweatshirts emblazoned with the letter 'K' in a gothic font, and tailored coats, were shown alongside floral printed and felted dresses. I particularly liked the eclectic use of ostrich feathers and crochet details. The plastic rain hats were a nod to Kane's mother, and were designed by Stephen Jones.
Alexander McQueen
Returning to London this season, each look from this collection was breathtaking...but after all this was McQueen. The dream-like ethereal gowns with butterfly motifs and hummingbird sequin embroidery were sensational. These were contrasted against structured leather dresses with photographic floral print details. Corsets were a key style in this collection, but for me the pièce de résistance was the quilted satin coat - nothing short of sublime!
Mulberry
Johnny Coca made his debut at Creative Director at Mulberry this season and I was thrilled to see the return of Mulberry to the LFW schedule. There were leather dresses and trousers, shearling, layering, classic tailoring (incredible wool felt coats and capes) and beaded mesh. A bold orange silhouette floral print looked striking on a black ground and the yellow/aubergine colour combo is definitely one I want to wear next season. Mulberry ready-to-wear is officially back on my radar.
Mary Katrantzou
'Cowboys and Princesses' was the title of yet another superb collection from the queen of LFW. Inspired by all things Americana, this collection featured colourful and playful motifs and prints. These prints included: stars, hearts and butterflies. There was even a display of embroidered evening gowns with pleated and voluminous tulle. The more youthful looks sat alongside easier to wear everyday pencil skirts and jackets.
House of Holland
You know a House of Holland collection will always be fun, and this one sure was. Metallics, leopard print, leather, lace, fringing, killer boots...oh and the awesome Cher and Debbie Harry dresses. Henry stated that the collection was a fusion of the 20's meets the 70's - however this concept was conceived it worked for me.
Peter Pilotto
Inspired by Pilotto's Austrian heritage, my eye's were drawn to the incredible ski map print on an oversized coat. Looking like a textured print at first glance, a closer look revealed true nature of this genius print. As always, colour was high on the agenda, as was patchwork lace and just above the ankle length dresses. I also liked the icy colours for A/W.
Temperley
With a distinct maritime feel, Alice Temperley's show was awash with pirate collars, tattoo motifs and beautiful seafaring prints. Temperley knows how to make clothes to swoon over, using the most perfect colour palettes including soft lavender and loose feminine silhouettes. There is always an element of delicacy with a Temperley collection, whether it be lace ruffles or pretty embroideries and this season I adored the ribbon embroidery on a tiered ruffled dress. The tattoo prints were inspired by the inkings of Temperley's friends.
Erdem
Taking a step back in time to the 30's and 40's - this collection was inspired by Hollywood starlets from the silver screen. This collection had a great balance between romance and darkness, with pretty floral prints and dramatic black velvet and high-neck lace dresses. Diamond shapes made for interesting patchworks. I predict this collection will be a red carpet favourite.
I will be posting my Milan Fashion Week Top 10 review next week...but to keep up to date with all the latest collections follow my 'Runway Favourites' board on Pinterest (details below) - I post catwalk collections daily.
Phillippa x
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