A/W 20 Fashion Trend - Latex

The most risque of fabrics, latex, is the most talked about fabric for A/W 20. This high-shine, glossy, material was a recurring theme on the runway this season and was championed by some of the biggest luxury brands. 

Latex is widely already worn by female popstars for performance wear - think Beyonce, J Lo and Miley Cyrus and is an aesthetic also most suited to the world of S&M. The dangerously tight material, which requires a small army to help one get into said latex garment, is not often seen in such a mainstream way on the runway. Anthony Vaccarello (at Saint Laurent) purposely chose the material because he wanted to incorporate "something cheap" into the collection to break away from conventional rules of fashion...his words not mine. For the Balmain A/W 20 collection, Olivier Rousteing teamed up with famed London-based latex brand, Atsuko Kudo. Both Balmain and Atsuko Kudo are firm favourites with the Kardashian clan, so I can only imagine this collaboration must have answered all their high-fashion latex dreams.

Fashioned, largely, into otherwise wearable silhouettes latex came in a variety of muted colours with the occasional pop of daring deep red/purple. For example, a latex polo neck at Saint Laurent and latex bodysuit at Sally Lapointe. Forming a second-skin on the body, the most dramatic looks were head-to-toe latex inclusive of gloves and footwear. 

Key Designers - Saint Laurent, Balmain, Sally Lapointe, David Koma, Richard Quinn

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

Pinterest - phillippadesign

Sustainable Fashion - Discussion and Brands To Know

'Sustainability' is undoubtedly one of the most used buzz words of 2020. Every industry has become more consciously aware of their carbon footprint, and what they can do to be more sustainable. Whether they want to or not, the issue of sustainability has been put firmly on the agenda of many a company and industry sector - with those who are not stepping up being publicly 'called out'. Whilst sustainability is being explored by fashion retailers, the demand for fashion is at an all time high (consumption is up by 10% since 2012) - with cheap fast-fashion becoming more popular than ever thanks in part to the rise of social media and the desire for Instagram approval and likes. Due in part to it's innovation, sustainable fashion comes at a higher price point, with consumers often unwilling to pay a premium due to lack of awareness or lack of care.

The 60 - 75 million apparel workers employed globally, are also amongst the lowest paid in the world. With many having to work in unsafe conditions, whilst also being subject to discrimination.

At present, millennials are most likely to throw out clothing for the following reasons: tired of wearing them, no longer on trend, or they are more than a few seasons old. In relation to cheap fast fashion, the wearer is unable to keep the clothes for several years because the quality of the garments simply does not allow for it. Very often, poorly stitched polyester items have a very short lifespan which results in them being discarded sooner rather than later.

In short, the fashion industry is one of the largest polluting industries in the world. 

Statistics

1. Three-fifths of all clothing ends up in landfill or incinerators within just one year of being produced.
2. 80 billion clothing items thrown out every year.

3. The fashion industry's greenhouse gas emissions equate to more than all international shipping and flights combined.

4. Washing clothes releases half a million tonnes of microfibres into the ocean each year, which is the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles.

One of the takeaway thoughts from the current Covid-19 pandemic, is that consumers will re-evaluate their spending. With many consumers being furloughed, or all together out of work, we will be watching our spending more closely then ever before. As a result, there is a hope that we will see a retail shift and the consumer will side step away from cheaper fast fashion and instead place a greater importance on quality and longevity of the product they purchase.  Giorgio Armani wrote an open letter to Women's Wear Daily, in which he commented "A careful and intelligent slowdown is the only way out...that will make the final customers perceive its true importance and value"
With this, will also come a greater consumer desire for transparency - with the want to know where our garments come from.

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Fashion Brands With Sustainable Initiatives

For those of you looking to make more eco-conscious decisions when it comes to fashion in 2020, here I am profiling a few of my favourite brands with sustainable initiatives:

Reformation - 75% of their collections are made with plant-based natural fibres which are rapidly renewable and/or fibres which are recycled. Chosen fabrics: Tencel (regenerated cellulose fibre), linen, recycled cotton, recycled cashmere. Furthermore, 15% of their collections are made from 'deadstock' fabrics, saved from landfill.

Stella McCartney - Sustainability is at the core of the brand. Famed for being a 'vegetarian' brand, no leather is used. All other materials are sourced ethically, with many recycled fibres being used. The brand also places a great emphasis on 'social sustainability', meaning the entire supply chain is looked at in great detail to ensure local artisans are protected and factories have carefully carried out audits. Even at store level, all wood used is 'Forest Stewardship Council' certified, meaning it comes from sustainably managed forests. All stores and offices are also powered by wind energy, supplied by Ecotricity. McCartney herself, was last year named Sustainability Advisor with LVMH.
Below, Stella McCartney ad campaign in collaboration with Extinction Rebellion.

Patagonia - Another big name to place a huge emphasis on both environmental responsibility and social sustainability, with a goal to be carbon neutral by 2025. At present, 72% of the line is made using recycled materials (including cashmere, down, wool, cotton and nylon) and 76% of the line is Fair Trade certified. Their supply chain promotes fair labor practices and safe working conditions.

Maggie Marilyn - Manufactured locally in New Zealand, in turn cutting down emissions in the supply chain. 50% of the collections are made from repurposed or recycled materials. Packaging produced by 'The Better Packaging Company', which has the highest certified standard for compostability. On a side note: Maggie Marilyn was the first brand to be picked up by Net-A-Porter in their first season.

Mother of Pearl - The 'No Frills' collection is a fully sustainable core line, with the sustainable attributes of each garment listed on their e-commerce site. The full supply chain was restructured in accordance with ethical practices, this filters down to the plastic-bottle free London head office. There is also a strong emphasis on educating the consumer. Creative Director, Amy Powney, has also recently launched #FASHIONOURFUTURE - a community pledging to change the way we consume to help stop climate change.

Needle & Thread - Sustainable capsule collection with Jasmine Hemsley. Collection made with recycled materials, including sequins made with post-consumer waste.

AMUR - Using sustainably sourced natural and reclaimed materials, the collections are not trend-driven allowing for greater longevity. Fibres including hemp and linen are preferred, which require little water and fertilizer to grow. AMUR also works with artisans to produce the hardware for their garments, partnering with the nonprofit fair-trade organisation 'Nest'.

House of Sunny - East London based brand House of Sunny, was founded in 2011. Going against the mainstream six collections per year, the brand creates only two collections each year. This allows the team to spend more time making informed choices when it comes to sourcing sustainable materials, with an emphasis on quality and fit.

H&M - As one of the biggest fashion retailers, in the world, H&M now offers full disclosure of the factories used to produce each garment. By doing so, such brands can be held accountable for their ethical and social responsibilities. H&M also have a 'Conscious' collection, which uses a higher percentage of sustainably sourced materials.

If you know of any great sustainable brands, or brands with sustainable initiatives, please do let me know.

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

Pinterest - phillippadesign

A/W 20 Print Trend - Checkmate!

Whilst we didn't see a huge amount of print on the runway, trend speaking that is, there was one print that did crop up countless times - Check/Plaid. Arguably one of the most classic prints, which has been used by designers for years, it came in many guises for A/W 20.

Gucci took the traditional route, with floor-sweeping tartan skirts in traditional colours. Continuing to play with tartan, Monse and Rokh both showcased modern daywear by incorporating spliced tartan prints together. I love how this approach gave the humble tartan print a new lease of life for 2020.

Over in London, Riccardo Tisci's latest collection for Burberry saw models take to the runway in deconstructed check shirting. This relaxed daywear was one of the most wearable outings for this trend. Large-scale 'picnic blanket' checks were fashioned into wool dresses at Dries Van Noten, vintage Victoriana dresses were seen at Luisa Beccaria and statement multi-coloured checked outerwear took centre stage at Shrimps.

Even for those who tend to steer clear of print, plaid is undoubtedly one of the easiest ways to adapt print into your wardrobe. It can easily be incorporated and into your current wardrobe and whilst it may be 'on trend' for this season, it never really goes out of style.

Phillippa x

Pinterest - phillippadesign

Twitter - @phillippa22

Fashion Brands Helping With The Fight Against Covid-19

These are unprecedented times for the global economy, but as I work in fashion I wanted to shine the spotlight on this particular sector. The Bangladeshi and Garment Exporters Association estimates that more than 1 million Bangladeshi garment workers have gone unpaid following the cancellation of over £2.4billon work of orders from the likes of Matalan and Primark, amongst others. This equated to a staggering 864million units of clothing.

This is an extremely challenging times for all retailers, with store closures and disruption to the global supply chain hitting fashion brands hard. I wanted to take a look at how fashion brands are reacting to this crisis, albeit still in it's early stages.

With the prevalence of social media during this pandemic, fashion retailers who have received heavy negative criticism for their handling of the current situation (premature job cuts, withholding payments from suppliers, trying to keep bricks and mortar stores open against government advise) will most likely suffer in the long run - as post-coronavirus consumers will remember those who did and didn't look after their staff and suppliers. We all understand the natural instinct to 'fight for survival' but when this comes at a cost to the wider supply chain, you have to question the company's basic moral and ethical principles.

New Look CEO, Nigel Oddy, announced that with immediate effect on 3rd April all Spring/Summer orders were cancelled. Any goods still in production, and/or not yet loaded onto a vessel were cancelled and would not be paid for. Any outstanding payments for goods already in transit would be delayed indefinitely. 
Sport Directs' owner Mike Ashley vowed to defy government orders to close all 'non-essential' shops by stating he intended to keep all Sports Direct shops open. As you can imagine, this decision went down like a led balloon with consumers and Ashley bowed to pressure and shut his stores.
Arcadia boss Philip Green angered the public with his plea for taxpayers to bail out his rapidly declining fashion empire...but we all remember the BHS pension debacle and how he dodges taxes by residing in Monaco.

But now time to shine a light on those brands who, rightly so, deserve positive recognition. These brands have stepped up to the mark, all in their own way to support the relief effort/helping frontline workers:

The Good Guys

Christian Siriano - When New York Governor Andrew Cuomo sent out a plea for clothing designers and manufactures to make masks, Christian Siriano stepped up to the mark. Initially his team were working from home, but due to limited resources could only make 50 masks per day. Siriano reached out to Governor Cuomo to seek permission to re-open his atelier as an 'essential' business in order to increase production. Cuomo agreed and now Siriano has distributed 1000's of FDA approved masks to state hospitals in the New York area. Christian Siriano I salute you!

Reformation - The LA based brand has joined forces with The City of Los Angeles and Mayor Eric Garcetti on the 'LA Protects' initiative. It aims to organise local manufacturers to make 5 million non-medical grade masks.

Burberry - The British heritage brand has repurposed it's Castleford factory and is now making non-surgical gowns and masks for NHS patients. Burberry is also funding research into a vaccine being developed at the University of Oxford.

Gucci - Provided 1.1million surgical masks and 55,000 medical overalls. Given the World Health Organisation control of it's social media channels to increase outreach of public service information.

H&M - $500,000 donation made to the Covid-19 Solidarity Response Fund. In addition, H&M are utilising it's supply chain to produce PPE.

Pyer Moss - Formed a network called 'Your Friends in New York' and set aside $50,000 to obtain masks and medical supplies. Also providing financial aid to small minority and women-led businesses.

Georgia Hardinge - 50% of profits from the brand's sustainable 'Dazed' dresses will be donated to Age UK, for a 2 month period.

Ralph Lauren - Donated $10m to help in the fight against Covid-19 and is producing 250,000 masks and 25,000 gowns. Also donated an undisclosed amount to the CFDA/Vogue fashion fund to help designers hit by the current economic situation.

Rails - The LA based brand is halting production of it's current collection, in order to produce masks which can be distributed to local communities. Also donating a percentage of profits to the No 'Kid Hungry' campaign.

Cos - Partnered with Baby2Baby to donate 2.5million essential items to the most vulnerable families.

Mango - Donated 2million masks.

Tods - Donated £5million to help the families of those who have lost loved ones to Covid-19.

Inditex Group - 13 of it's factories in Spain are making medical gowns and masks.

Fashion Institute of Technology - The New York college has launched 'Sew4Lives' and is encouraging students to make medical grade masks for health workers and non-medical masks for other employee's of other essential businesses.

Fabletics - Donating $5 from the sale of each items to WHO's COVID-19 Solidarity Response Fund.

Fast Retailing - The owners of Uniqlo and J Brand, donated over 10million face masks to a number of countries and states. This included 1million being distributed in New York state and 1 million in Japan.

Revolve - Using it's global network of influencers to acquire 1million masks.

Marks and Spencer - Pledged to donate thousands of care packages to coronavirus patients admitted to the new Nightingale hospital in London. Individual store branches are donating surplus food to local food banks.

Nordstrom - Partnered with Kass Tailoring to provide Providence Health with 100,000 masks.

Prada - Financing the intensive care units of three new hospitals in Milan. Producing 80,000 medical overalls and 110,000 masks.

Kering - Donated to the relief effort buy importing 3million masks for healthcare workers in France.

Calzedonia Group - The Italian conglomerate has committed to making 10,000 masks a day.

Kate Spade - Pledged $100,000 to Crisis Text Line, an organisation providing counselling for doctors and nurses.

Net-A-Porter - Volunteered vans from it's delivery fleet to the charity Age UK, to delivery essentail supplies to those in need.

Armani - All of Armani's Italian factories are now making single-use medical overalls.

Chanel - Producing protective face masks for use across France.

Versace - A personal donation of 200,00Euro's to ICU at San Raffaele Hospital in Milan, and a 400,000Euro donation from the brand itself. In February, the fashion house donated a substantial sum to the Chinese Red Cross.

Michael Kors - $2million donation spilt between hospitals and charities.

Havaianas - The Brazilian brand is producing PPE, as well as distributing food and hygiene products to the most vulnerable communities.

L.L.Beans - The American outerwear brand is manufacturing 10,000 masks daily.

Jimmy Choo - Pledged £500,000, including £250,000 to the NHS.

Alejandra Alonso Rojas - Donating 30% of all sales, until 30th May, to God's Love Will Deliver and No Kids Hungry - two charities that provide meals for those in need.

Sandro - Producing 10,000 non-medical masks, made from excess fabric. Created a charity t-shirt for sale online, with 100% of proceeds going to the Red Cross.

Nanushka - The Hungarian brand is distributing 12,000 medical grade masks which it secured from a Chinese supplier. It's atelier will also produce 2,000 masks for the general public.

Saks Fifth Avenue - Pledged $600,000 to various organisations that support Covid-19 relief efforts.

AG - The denim brand is donating $1million to the LA County Response Fund.

Baukjen - Offering 40% off for all key workers

Mayhoola - The parent company of Valentino and Balmain will donate 1million Euro's the the Sacco Hospital in Milan.

Paige - The LA-based denim brand are donating 20% of all sales to 'St. Vincent Meals on Wheels'.

Bulgari - Producing 100,000 hand sanitizer bottles.

La Perla - Donated 10,000 masks to the Muncipality of Bologna.

Boden - Providing nightwear and clothing, via the Helpforce charity, to NHS staff who can't return home at present.

Geox - The presidents of the brand have donated 1million Euro's to health services in the Veneto region of Italy.

Anine Bing - Producing 10,000 masks.

Moncler - The brand is donating 10million Euro's to support a project in Lombardy, for the construction of a hospital with over 400 intensive care units

Brooks Brothers - The brands' New York, Massachusetts and North Carolina factories are now making 150,000 medical gowns and masks.

LVMH - Transformed its perfume factories into manufacturing centre's for hand sanitiser. Also supplying France with 40million masks.

Dior - Re-opened one of its studios, and is now producing masks.

Kurt Geiger - Donating 55 x £100 gift cards to every hospital in the UK and Ireland where Kurt Geiger have stores. In addition NHS employees will receive 50% discount for a full year, once stores reopen.

By Rotation - The rental service is giving £50 store credit to all NHS workers to use once the pandemic is over.

Crocs - Donating a free pair of Crocs to healthcare workers in the USA

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

Pinterest - phillippadesign

A/W 20 Fashion Colour Trend - Chartreuse

Chartreuse is one of those colours currently enjoying it's 'moment' in the spotlight. In late 2019 online creative marketplace, Etsy, handpicked Chartreuse as it's colour of the year 2020 - predicting a spike in sales of goods made in the colour. Etsy, is in large part, known for interiors but clearly this colour is crossing over into the fashion frontier. 

It's an acidic colour, reminiscent of colours seen in nature, perhaps why it works so well in the home. Helping to create an inviting living space which is also refreshing. In terms of fashion, it offers a welcome move on from the highly over-commercialised 'neon' trend which was prevalent the past couple of years. It's still bold, and the wearer still needs to exude natural confidence, but it doesn't have the same connotations as neon. With neon, we think streetwear and festival attire, but with chartreuse it will sit easier in your wardrobe. Whilst on the runway it was seen in full head-to-toe looks, this need not be the case for your own styling. A chartreuse knit could, for example, be styled with more muted tailored pieces.

Key Designers - Erdem, Bottega Veneta, Sally Lapointe

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

Pinterest - phillippadesign

Styling Edit - Needle & Thread

I'm back again with a new season styling edit, one of my favourite types of content to put together for my blog. I thought that for this edit, I would focus on styling select pieces from my favourite contemporary British brand - Needle & Thread. Founded in 2013, Needle & Thread is synonymous with feminine daywear and evening dresses. With a focus on delicate hand embellishment and romantic prints, in ultra feminine colour palettes, Needle & Thread is the brand we all need to brighten up our wardrobe.

I have selected four of my favourite pieces, currently available online, and my aim is to show you how you can style these pieces in various different ways - perfect for a variety of occasions.

1
FLORAL DIAMOND RUFFLE DRESS

This dress is my idea of the 'perfect' dress. A super wearable piece that can be easily be styled for day and evening and requires little or no accessories. For this look, I styled in my preferred way - with a pair of western boots from Chloe and a leather jacket from LOT LTHR. I would wear this outfit to the office, on holiday and to a festival - versatility is a must in my wardrobe.

2 

FLORAL DIAMOND CHIFFON GOWN

I'm picturing holiday's in the south of France, venturing out down quaint cobbled streets in search of the perfect restaurant for dinner. *Let's just pause for a sweet moment to imagine that picturesque scene*. For this outfit, I wanted to create an effortlessly easy to wear holiday look. The loose silhouette makes the 'Floral Diamond Chiffon Gown' ideal for a hotter climate, but the gown can be also be belted at the waist if you so desire. Styled with classic summer accessories: a sun hat, straw bag from Jacquemus and oversized 70s-inspired sunnies from Chloe.

3

KALPTARU BODICE

For this look, I wanted to show how you can style down a more 'evening-wear' piece and make it appropriate for day. For those of you confident enough to rock a crop top this embellished bodice, part of the Needle & Thread X Jasmine Hemsley collection, features delicate embroidery in vivid shades of aqua and cobalt. The colouring lends itself perfectly to being styled with jeans - the ultimate dress down wardrobe staple. The cornflower blue blazer, from Pinko, is the perfect coverup offering a sense of formality to the look. Shoes come courtesy of Korean brand Yuul Yie - the architectural-esqe heel was simply too dreamy to resist!

4

ROSE BUD STRIPE MINI DRESS

Ok so for something unashamedly feminine and flattering, look no further than the 'Rose Bud Stripe Mini Dress'. The gorgeous champagne tulle and rose gold sequins make this dress the most beautiful occasion wear piece. Keeping the look ultra-feminine I have kept accessories tonal. Blush colours, in sumptuous satin, look divine sitting alongside the dress.

Needle & Thread - https://www.needleandthread.com/

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

Pinterest - phillippadesign

A/W 20 Colour Trend - Saturated Red

This rich hue has been seen an countless catwalks this season. From Michael Kors and Monse in New York, to Saint Laurent and Balenciaga in Paris - this top choice of colour provided countless show-stopping runway moments. Sequinned evening dresses were seen at Christopher Kane, Marc Jacobs and Bottega Veneta, where Daniel Lee continues to impress with his offerings for the Milanese brand. Tailoring was also an important product category, with striking red power suits seen at McQueen, Burberry and Altuzarra. It looks like workwear will be getting lively next season.  For great layering pieces, look to Iceberg and Roksanda for casual pullover knits. There simply will be no getting away from this sensual yet strong colour for A/W 20.

Phillippa x

Twitter - @phillippa22

Pinterest - phillippadesign

Felt Craft Idea's

It's been a short while since I posted on my blog...perhaps a classic case of 'creative burnout' as a result of blogging for 10 years. An entire decade - how did that happen? But as the world is a slightly different place right now, I thought 'no time like the present' to get back to it. Let's be honest, most of us have a lot of extra time on our hands at the moment!

It seems that right about now, we are all looking to be a bit more resourceful with how we spend our time and setting our mind to 'creative mode'. So whilst I usually blog about fashion trends and analyse runway collections, I thought now would be the time to share some of my other creative projects with you. 

One of my main creative hobbies is making felt decorations. I find it unbelievably relaxing to set my mind to a creative task and come up with ideas for different decorations. Predominantly using felt, I then add embroidery with coloured thread and beads. Below are some of my own favourite creations:

Phillippa x

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Twitter - @phillippa22

WFH / Lockdown Music Playlist

I frequently used to update my blog with playlists of music I was 'currently listening to', but i've not done this for some time now. Well now we are all in lockdown, with lack of regular human interaction, music can be a bit of a 'saving grace'. I think we all turn to music to lift our mood and reflect how we are feeling at any given moment. I've put together a new list of the artists / albums I have been listening to...

The National - Albums: High Violet, Trouble Will Find Me, I Am Easy To Find

Mating Ritual - Album: Hot Content

Slowdive - Album: Slowdive

Future Islands - Albums: Singles, The Far Field

Luke Combs - Album: This One's for You

Hurts - Albums: Happiness, Exile, Surrender, Desire

Eddie Vedder - Album: Into The Wild

The Killers - Album: Battle Born

Foals - Album: What Went Down

Oasis - Albums: Heathen Chemistry, (What's The Story) Morning Glory?

Coldplay - Albums: A Head Full of Dreams, X&Y, Ghost Stories, Mylo Xyloto, Vida La Vida

Richard Ashcroft - Album: These People

Twin Shadow - Albums: Caer, Eclipse

Fleetwood Mac - Albums: Tango in the Night, Rumours

Haim - Albums: Something To Tell You, Days Are Gone

Taylor Swift - Albums: Lover, Reputation, 1989, Red, Fearless, Speak Now

Anna Of The North - Album: Lovers

M83 - Album: Saturdays = Youth

Christine and the Queens - Album: Chris

Billie Eilish - Album: When We All Fall Asleep, Where Do We Go?

Blondie - Album: Best of Blondie

Phillippa x

Pinterest - phillippadesign

Twitter - @phillippa22