Living in London, and working in fashion, there is always something exciting about the prospect of LFW. This season Emporio Armani and the powerhouse that is TommyXGigi were added to the schedule. Brit designers are known for their experimental approach to design, not afraid to take risks and play with colour and silhouette. Here are my top 5 from LFW SS18...
J.W.Anderson
Jonathan Anderson referenced the 'need for sanctuary' in his show notes, with a feeling of serenity washing over the collection. You may remember that Anderson recently curated his first exhibition at the Hepworth gallery in Yorkshire, and perhaps as a nod to this Anderson used many natural fiber's this season: linen, cotton and nappa leather. Previous collections have consisted of architectural silhouettes, and whilst Anderson's love of art was still present this season the collection on a whole looked more composed. Stripes and cross tied detailing were key features.
Christopher Kane
At a glance you wouldn't be able to second guess that Kane's latest collection was inspired by an infamous 1980's South London brothel...but take a closer look and the references were all there. The tailored pieces, which opened the show, were a nod to the well-to-do gentlemen who may visit such an establishment. However take a closer look and the models were wearing chokers. Elsewhere, patent leather was a nod to a powerful dominatrix. As the phrase goes 'no one knows what happens behind closed doors' and Kane toyed with this unassuming nature of his muse by creating trims from household cleaning material such as mops and cleaning cloths.
Mary Katrantzou
I have been a fan of Mary Katrantzou from day one. I fondly remember her joyful printed collections of seasons past, and for me this SS18 collection harks back to those early days. This is the Katrantzou that I love - colour, print and volume. Billowing silhouettes opened the show in high-shine fabrics and glorious OOT prints. The collection was inspired by the designer's childhood, more specifically the toys she used to play with. Most notably in this collection was the use of Hama beads - which were used as embellishments on dresses. There was also a hint of sportswear in the collection, with the addition of parker jackets with elasticated cord pulls.
Peter Pilotto
It wouldn't be a Peter Pilotto collection without a splash of colour or an eye catching print - this season was no different. However, for SS18 the colours were less vibrant and instead in a beautiful array of pastels. The two key prints were stripes and stylised florals - the later of which was inspired by a trip the design duo took to the island of Okinawa, Japan. Whilst I felt at times the large scale florals looked a tad dated, or vintage, I felt they worked well when patched together on a slightly smaller scale. I also loved the ultra feminine use of tailoring: ruched panels, knot details, off-the-shoulder tops and flowing asymmetric hems. The Japanese influence was also present on some of the Kimono-style dresses. Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos also added athleisure looks into the collection, with silk tracksuits.
Erdem
Erdem Moralioglu's latest offering was inspired by Queen Elizabeth. It was on a research trip to Windsor Castle that Erdem found his starting point for SS18. Suitably royal fabrics including brocades were used multiple times in the collection - all in rich colours. Many of the pieces were conservative in their cut, with high necklines and below the knee hems, however as the collection progressed, bustier dresses and floor length revealing lace gowns made an appearance. The emerging trend for balloon-skirted gowns was also seen here on the runway. The prints were beautifully hand painted florals, with exquisite elements of embellishment.
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Phillippa x
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